Adorned in Dreams: Fashion and ModernityRutgers University Press, 2003 - 328 pages When Adorned in Dreams was first published in 1985, Angela Carter described the book as "the best I have read on the subject, bar none." From haute couture to haberdashery, "deviant" dress to Dior, Elizabeth Wilson traces the social and cultural history of fashion and its complex relationship to modernity. She also discusses fashion's vociferous opponents, from the "dress reform" movement to certain strands of feminism. Wilson delights in the power of fashion to mark out identity or subvert it. This brand new edition of her book follows recent developments to bring the story of fashionable dress up to date, exploring the grunge look inspired by bands like Nirvana, the "boho chic" of the mid 90's, retro-dressing, and the meanings of dress from the veil to soccer player David Beckham's pink-varnished toenails. |
Table des matières
Introduction | 1 |
The History of Fashion | 16 |
Explaining It Away | 47 |
The fashion Industry | 67 |
Fashion and Eroticism | 91 |
Gender and Identity | 117 |
Fashion and City Life | 134 |
Fashion and Popular Culture | 155 |
Oppositional Dress | 179 |
Utopian Dress and Dress Reform | 208 |
Feminism and Fashion | 228 |
Changing Times Altered States | 248 |
| 278 | |
Bibliography | 302 |
| 315 | |
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Expressions et termes fréquents
Adorned in Dreams aesthetic ambiguity American androgyny appear argued artists beauty became become body bourgeois Britain British capitalism Cecil Beaton Chanel chic clothes colours corsets cosmetics costume created dandy dandyism department store developed dress reform early eighteenth century Elizabeth Elizabeth Arden example expression factories fashion industry Fashion Theory fashionable dress female feminine feminism feminists film garments gender George Melly girls glamour hair Harmondsworth haute couture Helena Rubinstein hijab hippie individual industrial revolution kind permission labour London look make-up Martin Margiela Mary Mary Quant masculine mass modern modernist moral natural nineteenth century Paris Paul Poiret Penguin period political pre-Raphaelite production punk Reproduced by kind Second World Second World War sexual silk skirts social society street style of dress suggests suit tailoring tion trade traditional trousers twentieth century underwear uniform Veblen veil Victorian wear western woman women women's dress wore workers worn York