score of wonderment, which the real nature of things denies, and for which self-praise, let me tell you, is but a hollow substitute."

"Ah, sir," sighed my worthy friend, "I see that no foreigner can ever be made to understand our character."

CHAPTER X.

WE left Boston on the 23d of October, 1827, after a stay of nearly three weeks, greatly pleased with the place and with the people; and much gratified as well as flattered by the reception we had every where met with.

The fashion of living at boarding-houses prevails there, as it does every where else in the United States; and we were fortunate in meeting a very pleasant party of fellow-lodgers at the house where we remained during our stay. The cold and formal habits of which we had complained in most other places, were exchanged in this agreeable city for a greater degree of frankness than we had seen before. The gentlemen at the boarding-house, indeed, won our particular regard by the friendly attentions they paid to our little companion, who was often left at home, while we were enjoying the hospitality of our other acquaintances. I happened to look into the dining-room one day,

upon hearing the child screaming with delight, when I found these good-natured people had allowed the young traveller to mount the table, and to run backwards and forwards from one end to the other. Each of the party had a segar in his mouth, from which he gave her little ladyship a broadside of smoke, as she passed along the line, according to the best principles of naval tactics.

I had, however, many sharp, amicable discussions with my friends at Boston, on the thousand and one topics which arose between us; but I must do them the justice to say, that I have rarely met a more good-natured, or perhaps I should say, a more good-tempered people; for during the whole course of my journey—though I never disguised my sentiments, even when opposed to the avowed favourite opinions of the company-I never yet saw an American out of temper. I fear I cannot say half so much for myself; for I was often a good deal harassed by these national discussions, when: the company and I took our station on the opposite Poles of the question. But it is pleasant to have it in my power to say, that I cannot recall a single instance in which any thing captious, or personally uncivil, was ever said to me, though I repeated, openly, and in all companies, every thing I have written in these volumes, and a great deal

more than, upon cool reflection, I choose to say again.

In the course of the day, we reached Providence, the capital of the State of Rhode Island; having averaged somewhat less than seven miles an hour, which I record from being considerably the quickest rate of travelling we met with any where in America.

From Providence, we wished to proceed to Hartford in Connecticut, a distance of seventy-two miles, by an extra stage, and at our own time; for we found it very unpleasant not to have the power of stopping when any thing interested us. The stage proprietor, however, would not let us have an extra, unless we paid for the whole nine places. Even this I did not object to, though we had generally secured the whole carriage for the hire of six seats. But when we came to understand one another, it proved that, even if I did hire the whole vehicle, still the time was not to be our own; for if the conveyance went with us at all, it must start at a certain hour, and run straight through in one day, without stopping any where. As this was defeating the object in view, and the proprietor was inexorable, we amused ourselves in walking up and down this busy town, looking in at every place where we thought carriages or horses might be hired. But there was not a man in the place

who would take us on any terms; and at last we were compelled to engage our places in next morning's mail stage.

The nominal hour of starting, was five in the morning; but as every thing in America comes sooner than one expects, a great tall man walked into the room at ten minutes before four o'clock, to say it wanted half an hour of five; and presently we heard the rumbling of the stage coming to the door, upwards of thirty minutes before the time specified.

Fortunately, there were only five passengers, so that we had plenty of room; and as the morning was fine, we might have enjoyed the journey much, had we not been compelled to start so miserably early. At the village of Windham, we dined in a cheerful sunny parlour, on a neatly dressed repast, excellent in every way, and with very pleasant, chatty company. The whole dinner party were absorbed in vehement discussions respecting the endless Presidential question, which in country as well as in town, appeared to occupy all men's minds, morning, noon, and night. I joined as well as I could in these conversations, though sorely perplexed in trying to follow the rambling nature of these New Englanders' talk; for they wandered from the topic to the right and to the left in such a way, that I often quite lost sight of the original point. They