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CHAPTER IX.

Drives near Dresden-Mr. B.-Sketch on the bridge-A word on smoking-Mr. Sch

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Crofton Croker and the "Fairy Legends"-The Hand-book-Porcelain Gallery

CHAPTER X.

169

Leipsig-Different views of life by different dispositions-Strange contrast at the hotel-A German stove-A dissertation on tables-d'hôte

CHAPTER XI.

195

German beds-Eisleben, Luther's birth-place-Drive to Cassel-The Review-Wilhelmshöhe.

CHAPTER XII.

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213

Picture-gallery at Cassel-Museum-Mr. MouseMarble bath-Legends of Henry the Lion, and Prince Hubert-Reflections suggested by them.

CHAPTER XIII.

239

A male knitter-Convicts-A kiss masculine - A second visit to Wilhelmshöhe

CHAPTER XIV.

254

Return to Frankfort--Scenery from Cassel-Harvest of apples-Feelings at church-Mr. Bulwer-Travelling journeymen-Children abroad-Promenades and shops at Frankfort

267

SOUVENIRS

OF A

SUMMER IN GERMANY.

CHAPTER I.

Wartburg-Luther's confinement there-Lewis and Elizabeth-Albert and Margaret-Frederick of the bitten cheek-The Monk and Nun of MadlesteinGotha-A dinner eaten by guests for whom it was not intended-Luther at Erfurth.

THERE is a barber at the Halbe Monde, who might have been a rival to the "barber of Seville," of musical and immortal memory. He is a universal genius, a perfect factotum. Waiter, valet-de-place, friseur, cicerone-he is everything by turns as the case demands; and having had the honour of shaving Goëthe twice, an honour of which he is not a little

VOL. II.

B

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proud, is now a literary character, and talks of Schiller, Wieland, Herder, as familiar acquaintances, quoting from their works, and criticising them most learnedly. Of his very intimate friend Goëthe he tells never-ending anecdotes, and describes him as one of the most lively persons whose chins ever came under his hands.

This was the man who presented himself in reply to W's inquiries for a guide to Wartburg, and a most entertaining one he proved..

Wartburg is at about an hour's walk from Eisenach. It is a most interesting place, both from the beauty of its situation and the historical associations connected with it.

Luther was for ten months an inmate, or rather a prisoner, in this castle, and the room he occupied, with his chair, table, desk, &c. is preserved in its original state. On the 26th of April, 1521, he left Worms, after the memorable diet, during which he had made such a bold profession of his faith before the emperor, Duke Erich of Brunswick, and the whole council, at the close of which he had been excommunicated and placed under the ban of the empire.

Notwithstanding all the threats held out to him, Luther stopped at Eisenach to preach, and on his journey thence to his home at Wit

tenberg, while passing through the woods, was waylaid and attacked by a body of armed men. They dispersed his attendants and guide, took him prisoner, and obliged him to change clothes with a countryman. They then put him on a horse, and conveyed him in silence to the Wartburg.

It was some time before Luther was aware that this capture was by order of his friend Frederic, Elector of Saxony, who had recourse to it as the only means of preserving the Reformer from the dangers that threatened his life. The place of his retreat was kept a profound secret, even from his friends-he assumed the dress of a young nobleman of that period, allowing his hair and mustachios to grow, and went by the name of Junker Georg, ('Squire George.)

While at Wartburg, Luther never lost sight of the sacred cause in which he was embarked. He commenced translating the Bible into German, and composed many treatises and works on disputed points; among others was one against monastic vows, and the celibacy of the clergy, which he dedicated to his father. The severity of his studies while here undermined his health, and he was tormented with the desire to return to his useful and honourable

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