A NARRATIVE, &c.

FROM NEWCASTLE TO GIBRALTAR.

Wednesday, Sep. 27, 1843.-I sailed from Newcastle at four in the afternoon; and after experiencing a very stormy passage, and not a little inconvenience from sea-sickness, arrived in London on Friday, about one o'clock in the afternoon, all being well; and immediately proceeded to Southampton.

Sep. 30.-Spent an agreeable day in viewing the town generally, as well as some objects of more peculiar interest. We were much pleased with the very beautiful walks which adorn the town, and contribute to the health of its inhabitants. Went to see the "Great Liverpool;" took my berth; had my luggage conveyed on board, and made all ready to sail next day.

Oct. 1.-Having taken leave of my friends, I went on board at three in the afternoon; and at four our vessel was under weigh. The southern coast was indeed beautiful to look upon, as it appeared to recede from our view. We soon arrived at the Isle of Wight; the exquisite and diversified scenery of which, interspersed as it is with neat, and in some cases, splendid houses, and even castles, surpassed anything that I had ever seen. As I was walking upon the deck, a servant came up to me, and asked if I was General Alexander? Thinking he had said, "Are you going to Alexandria ?'' I replied, "I am." He then said, "Please, sir, come to to dinner;" and turning quickly round, he walked off. I followed him, not a little surprised; but thought at the same time that, probably, passengers to Alexandria might be favoured with some peculiar privileges. When, however, I perceived that he was leading me down into the state cabin, where was laid out a most sumptuous

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VOYAGE-BAY OF BISCAY.

dinner, I stepped up to him and said, "I think, sir, there must be some mistake; I have dined on shore, and I am not a first, but a second cabin passenger." On hearing this, he looked at me with surprise, and inquired, "Are you not General Alexander?" I replied, "No, I am not― I thought you had asked me if I was going to Alexandria." The servant then set off in search of the General, and I was exceedingly glad to find that the mistake had been discovered in time for me to make a safe retreat. This little incident has often caused me to smile, when thinking of the uncomfortable situation I must have found myself in, had I proceeded a little further, and placed myself in the General's seat.

Darkness soon came on, and I went to bed. The beds were clean and comfortable, as they all had undergone a thorough repair and cleansing, while the vessel was laid up in dock, a month previous to sailing.

2nd. After enjoying a comfortable night's rest, I awoke at day break, and hearing the bellowing of the wind, and roaring of the sea, I went on deck to have a look out. The waves were not so large as at Tynemouth bar, and as yet I felt free from sickness. On looking around me, and seeing so many of my fellow-passengers suffering from this painful sensation, I considered myself very highly favoured of the Lord; and the pleasure I then enjoyed, was next to the anticipation of being at Jerusalem.

3rd.-Arose soon after day-break; went on deck where I staid about half an hour. Not seeing any of the passengers there, I could not help thinking that times. were not very good with many of them; especially as the morning was particularly fine and inviting, and as we had just entered the bay of Biscay. The sea was very smooth sea birds were flying about, and porpoises were playing in the water; and the first vessel we had seen since leaving Southampton here hove in sight. How pleasant and gratifying to be free from sickness so as to be able to enjoy such sights as these!

Much did I pity those who were confined to their beds, especially

a

poor Frenchman whose berth was above fine, and who had not been able to rise, even to put his clothes off, since we left Southampton.

4th. The sea was very rough throughout the night, yet I slept soundly and arose at day-break: went on deck, and there enjoyed a very pleasant hour, all the while the spray flying over the ship. I, of all the passengers on board, trode the deck alone, as none of them were so far recovered from the effects of sea sickness as to come up, and enjoy with me a morning's promenade on ship-board.

At three o'clock land appeared; the first we had seen since leaving the Isle of Wight. This was the Spanish coast. It presented a bold mountainous appearance; and the white chalky cliffs looked not unlike snow deposited here and there upon the mountains. This rocky coast exhibits an interesting appearance, from the considerable number of shepherds' and fishermen's huts which are interspersed up and down, in various directions and situations. The little boats of the fisherman were skimming along the water like things of life; and we passed a large steamer. The sea at this time was perfectly calm, and presented an animated appearance, by the hundreds of sea-birds which were floating on the wing, just above its surface. I found the climate henceforward becoming more and more warm.

Night having set in, the moon arose to shed its soft, pale rays upon the glassy sea. The ship's band was called into requisition; and presently the deck of our vessel was animated by ladies and gentlemen, who promenaded its surface. I was reminded of the beautiful promenade at Harrowgate, only that instead of gravel walks, we had the ship's boards; instead of flowers and shrubs to look at, we had a smooth sea, and the silvery beams of the moon dancing fantastically upon the water. The scene altogether was delightful.

5th.-Rose again at day-break: the sea was still smooth, while the sun appeared to be rising out of its bosom, in glorious splendour! I was the first on deck

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APPROACH TO GIBRALTAR.

this morning by half an hour. The distant shore of Portugal appeared in view, but only one vessel was to be seen. A large fish was perceived, at a distance of about 200 yards from our vessel, now and again rising to the surface, and spouting water into the air. I went down to breakfast at eight o'clock, and found that our whole party were quite recovered from sickness, and able to take their places at the breakfast table, which had not been the case before; for on the first day we hove in sight of land, I had only two or three to sit down with me to breakfast; and even those were not then quite free from sickness: but since that morning our party had been gradually increasing until this day, when the entire number of passengers sat down and with good appetites enjoyed a hearty and an excellent breakfast. As for myself, I cannot but believe, that the only cause why I was preserved from sea-sickness, was the preparation which I had made the three weeks before leaving my native shores, in being strictly temperate, and even self-denying, in eating and drinking.

The Portuguese coast still continued in view, but at such a distance, that very little could be seen but the white chalky sides of the mountain. The vessel glided softly along; its movement being scarcely perceptible, owing to the tranquility of the sea, and the calmness of the air. This evening was spent in the same agreeable manner as the last, under the mild rays of a lovely moon; while the musicians contributed their quota to the pleasure participated in by all.

6th. I was first, but one, on deck this morning: land still appeared, but at a great distance. The sun gloriously emerging from the peaceful sea, enabled us to perceive some few vessels gliding along towards their "desired haven." As we drew nearer to land, we perceived it to have a barren and mountainous aspect. This evening was spent by the passengers, as were the two former nights, on deck.

7th. First on deck this morning, by full half an hour. I found that we had entered the straits of

Gibraltar, having Spain on the left hand and Africa on the right. The coast of Spain is here very beautiful, and most of the mountains are cultivated from their base nearly to their summits. Many of them are very high and rocky, resembling not a little those of Keswick, in Cumberland. The harvest appeared as if over, for I could not see any corn in the fields. There were no trees, nor green hedges; but I saw a great many large patches of whin, even among the corn-fields; as if there had been a struggle long carried on, and not yet terminated, whether of the two was to become master of the soil. The mountains on the African side are even higher than those on the Spanish. As we drew nearer and nearer to Gibraltar, the vessels in the harbour became more and more visible, thus increasing our happiness in the prospect that soon our ship would make one of their number, and we should then be permitted to visit this celebrated rock. Our ship having moored, I

went ashore; and I must confess, that often as I have listened with deep interest to verbal descriptions of the beauty of the town of Gibraltar; and though I have often looked on paintings of it, yet the ideas thus formed of the place, fell far short of the reality. The houses are kept perfectly clean, and they are exquisitely neat ; some are coloured white, and some yellow; and all standing out in pleasing relief from the steep bold mountain side, which flanks the town. The gardens and pleasure grounds are kept in the nicest order by the soldiers; and here were growing, in the open air, all those plants, which in England we cultivate in our hot-houses. The market was literally filled with the finest fruit I had ever seen; grapes were sold at one penny per pound, and every other sort of fruit was proportionably cheap. Gibraltar is a strongly fortified place, both by nature and art. There are here a great many Roman Catholics; and they have a very splendid chapel the Jews are also very numerous. The appearance of the inhabitants was to me very novel and strange, composed as they are of people of all countries