AGRICULTURE-DEFILE.

51

a draught that were far below that value; they looked like two-year-old stirks. Cattle were grazing among the corn, which was about three or four inches high, and had a very strong, healthy blade: and as there are no hedges, they roam about at their pleasure. I have been told that the farmers pay no rent in money, but a very small portion of the produce is forwarded by them to the governor of Jerusalem.

A considerable portion of the land is quite overrun with thistles and other weeds, which seem to be so inveterately fixed, that the husbandman's toil cannot remove them: but I am quite convinced that an English plough, with a pair of English horses, would clean the ground completely in half a year. The land everywhere, on both hill and dale, does in reality enjoy her Sabbaths,' by not yielding one-tenth of what it might be made to produce, under proper culture.

I saw no manure, except on gardens near the towns: neither cart nor wheel-barrow had I yet met. The corn is trodden out by oxen, and as there is never any rain in harvest, it is got in very dry, and will keep for any length of time. The sort of grain mostly raised is wheat and barley; I saw no oats whatever. The barley is not converted into malt-it is principally used in feeding horses: the straw, I believe, is cut or broken very small, and given to camels and also to horses.

After this plain we got into a very rough, stony country: the road lay between rocky mountains rising almost perpendicularly at each side of a narrow defile. They reminded me of the Keswick mountains. We had to slacken our pace, as the road became very bad, being everywhere obstructed by huge stones or ledges of rock; and in some places the rocks were worn so smooth, that I almost trembled to pass over them on horseback; but, a little experience soon convinced me, that I had no reason to fear, for the nimble little animal never so much as stumbled. Sure I am, that no English horse dare venture on these roads. We had to move on in single file, owing to the narrowness of the road; and thus we

52 DANGEROUS ROAD-SCARCITY OF WATER.

got on very well until the afternoon, when the road became more dangerous, being in many places more like steps of stairs than anything else, and our horses not having had food from between four and five in the morning, they began to faint, and at length one of them fell. The poor creature could not rise till the luggage was removed from its back, and when it got up we loaded it again and proceeded on our journey: but we had not gone far when another fell, and we had to unload, raise, and re-load it, which detained us a good while. They fell because of weakness and fatigue, and not from a want of sure-footedness. I began now to perceive that my horse did not like to be directed where to go, so I laid the bridle on its neck and left the animal to its own sagacity, which was the best plan, for the creature never once made a stumble when guiding itself. Our journey was not less than 35 miles. Water is very scarce on this road. I only met with one place where I had a hope of slaking my thirst; it was thus:—the horses espying some watering troughs turned aside to seek for water; at the same moment I observed an Arab traveller come up, and putting his head into a hole in the rock, he let himself down head foremost, till only his feet remained to be seen. As soon as he got up, I jumped off my horse and attempted to do the same; but I could not reach the water by at least one foot, and fearing to let myself down any farther in this perpendicular manner, and "having nothing to draw with," I had to ascend, bitterly disappointed at seeing good water within a few inches of me and yet-Tantalus-like-not able to obtain a draught.

From thirst and fatigue we all began to long exceedingly to see the end of our journey; and at length hope began to dawn, by observing small patches of cultivated land on the road side, and then meeting with a great number of olive trees and some vines, We next met a a great number of women, barefoot, carrying baskets on their heads, as if returning from market. We had long been ascending a steep hill, in the momentary expecta

tion of getting a view of the city-" the holy city," at every bend of the road; when, after many disappointments, we arrived at the top of a hill, from which we had a distinct view of the walls of Jerusalem. Being nearly on a level with the city, and a mile distant, and as the houses are all within the walls, we could discern but little of the place. The outer wall, which appeared quite perfeet, was not remarkable for height. We entered by the Jaffa gate, which is nigh to the castle of David, on Zion's Hill, and first proceeded to the Bishop's residence which is close by, but his lordship was at church; however his good lady received us very kindly, and advised us to put up at an hotel kept by a Maltese, a near relative of the Bishop's dragoman. We proceeded as directed, but in going down the street one of our luggage horses fell: so we had to take off its load and carry it to the hotel. As fast as a package or an article could be taken off, it was snatched up by some ragged, dirty fellow, and ran off with to the hotel. From having heard many stories of the thievery of the poorer classes in Jerusalem, my heart was fearful enough lest I should not find half my goods when I got to the hotel: but all my apprehensions were happily removed on looking over my various packages and finding all safe. The men then craved for "bucksheeth," which I gladly handed them; and then, having unladen our horses, paid our muleteers and dismissed them, we felt truly rejoiced that we had at last arrived in Jerusalem. We were now comparatively comfortable, after the fatigue and privations which we had for the last fortnight experienced, during which period I did not once undress myself for the purpose of obtaining rest, being only able to change my clothes a few times, and having had to commingle freely with persons who were by no means clean. I would here observe, in passing, that if any one intends visiting Palestine without having first made up his mind to endure many privations, by setting the object before him, as desirable and important, his spirits are sure to fail when he finds that, in the prosecution of his journey, his comforts and

54

JERUSALEM-NICALO.

conveniences must be sacrificed. For my part, my desire to see Jerusalem and other parts of the land of promise was so intense, I murmured at no privation; and by the gracious kindness of God towards me, I, though far advanced in life, was enabled to endure: my health was sustained, my spirits failed not, and my confidence in the guardian care of the Most High was strengthened by every day's experience of his watchfulness and love.

JERUSALEM AND THE NEIGHBOURHOOD.

22nd.-There having been both thunder and rain during the past night, and this day being wet, and feeling sorely fatigued, I did not go out. I contented myself in my room, and employed my time in writing home, giving an account of my safe arrival in Jerusalem. Mr. Manning having left me, I retained Nicalo to myself, who was a plain, honest lad; and having gone to the American Missionaries' School at Beyroot, he had learned a little English. He had also travelled to Jerusalem before this, with an Irish gentleman as interpreter, from whom he had received a good character for honesty and faithfulness. The poor fellow, notwithstanding these advantages, was very ignorant. On my asking him what religion he professed, he said he was a Christian, and became such at the Missionary School at Beyroot. I then enquired if he ever read his bible, but he seemed not to understand what I meant. I told him what sort of book the bible is, but he replied that he thought he had never seen it. I then asked how many English books he had read: his reply was "One, and that was called the Alphabet." It may not be amiss here to remark, that the Turks generally are as ignorant of the Koran, as the great bulk of professing Christians here are of the bible: for Mr. Manning and I have asked many of them about it, but they all said they had never heard of such a thing as the Koran; and yet they are followers of "the false prophet" Mahomet. But no matter how ignorant

BISHOP ALEXANDER.

55

soever they may be of the doctrines of their prophet, there is one thing they are keenly alive to, namely-to trace their connection with him by blood, for such as can do so are privileged to wear a green turban, and a great number of such privileged turbans have I seen.

23rd.-I called upon the Bishop this morning, and delivered some parcels which I had for him, and letters of introduction. I was received by the Bishop with much kindness: and he invited me to dine with him on the following day. This day I spent an hour most agreeably with him, in conversing as to what has been done, is still in operation, and yet remains to be effected for the welfare of ancient Israel. Though I was impatient to traverse the city, still as the rain continued I was compelled to remain within doors, after I had returned from my interview with Bishop Alexander.

24th. The rain continued to fall this day, for which the people greatly rejoiced, and well they may, as all their dependence for water throughout the summer, depends upon their winter's rain.* Water sometimes becomes so scarce, that it exceeds the price of bread. This day I dined and took tea with the Bishop and his family. His Lordship is a truly kind and agreeable man; his lady is pious, amiable, and no less kind and obliging than the Bishop: and their rising family of seven fine children greatly interested and delighted me, by their sweet, unassuming, and orderly manner, owing to the excellent parental discipline under which they have the happiness to be brought up.

The Bishop's house is on Mount Zion, near to the Castle of David: it is in a clean, comfortable situation, compared with the houses of the town generally. The principal objection that I saw to its situation was, that just in front is a large square, where a market for fruit and vegetables is held; and the noise of buyers and sellers, bargaining, and even quarrelling-which they are

The rain which falls during the winter is conducted from the roofs to large tanks underneath the houses, where the supply of water for the year is preserved,