to the effectiveness of the magnificent vault over-head. Each bay is occupied by two pairs of coupled columns of delicate proportions, carrying capitals and abaci; which, with those of corresponding faces of the piers, support three round arches. Above these is a solid wall filling the pointed arch of the bay above. This is pierced by circular windows; some of which still retain the beautiful lacework Moorish tracery, which formerly filled them all, and gave a semblance of fairy light and shadow to the tranquil seclusion of these sacred alleys. The round arches and windows are elegantly moulded and otherwise enriched. And the capitals and abaci, of the coupled columns, and pier shafts, are in some cases covered with exquisite carving in varied foliage; in others with a vigour of expression, and even of humour in the portraiture of animal life, adding greatly to the spirit of the work, while subserving all the purposes of merely decorative art. The details of delicate architectural adornment, both within and without the arcade, while they heighten greatly the pleasure of the unprofessional visitor, can scarcely be expected to come within the capacity of description of the mere amateur of art. He may well look upon these things, however, and enjoy them as the material expressions of the beautiful, and of the inspiration, which comes of a pure and exalted nature; and regret that their exclusive use by those, who, in the past, too often made them tributary to sensualism, have taken from them, in the eyes of Protestant bigots-for such there are the charm in which they have been clothed by taste and genius.

Returning from the cloisters, one with knowledge of the history of that sweet saint, cannot refrain from

stopping a moment at the shrine of Santa IsabelElizabeth of Hungary-in reverent respect of her really Christian character. It is a perfectly plain and unadorned testimonial to her memory, in the Chapel of the "Virgen de los Dolores" directly under the organ; and above it hangs a simple relievo, representing her in act of raising a sick man. No florid decorations, and inflated symbolism of absurd traditions, are here seen, as in the Chapel of Santa Tecla. The one plain sculpture tells the true tale of her life-a life of good deeds, and above all of charity. Divested of all legendary fancies, which superstition is apt to hang about the words and acts of those, who, in an unlettered age have illustrated rare virtues, there is yet enough of Santa Isabel's life, historically authenticated, and universally accepted in Hungary where she was born, at Wartburg in Saxony where she spent the most of her gentle life, and in its neighbourhood where she died, to show, that hers was a marvellous outpouring of love and duty to God, and to her fellowbeing. Of royal lineage, and of royal marriage, she regarded her state, its influence and its income, merely as the means bestowed by her Maker for doing good. The domain of poverty and of physical suffering, fell within her sovereignty of duty; and she deemed herself but the almoner, and the Samaritan, of Him, who, when asked "When saw we thee an hungered, and fed thee; naked, and clothed thee; sick or in prison, and came unto thee?" shall answer and say-" inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye have done it unto me." Isabella, united Spain's first and greatest queen, has received from her time to this, the applauses of civilization for her proferred "pledge

of jewels, to raise the necessary funds for an enterprize, which, if successful would add new dignity to her own already vast glory, and empire. Few recall the fact, that this greater Isabel of Hungary, more than two centuries before that event, set the example of a far nobler self-sacrifice; when, exhausting the public treasury, in the founding and supporting of hospitals for the sick and poor, she actually sold her own robes and jewels, as well as pledged the jewels of the state, in the fulfilment of her holy trust. The Master "said unto him who asked what good thing shall I do that I may have eternal life?"-" If thou wilt be perfect, go and sell that thou hast, and give to the poor, and thou shalt have treasure in heaven." And who can doubt, that Christ's judgment, is Santa Isabel's reward-" Come ye blessed of my Father, inherit the kingdom prepared for you from the foundation of the world?" It is a befitting sanctuary-this Cathedral of Tarragona-which enshrines the humble memorial that has recalled the deeds of this "perfect" follower of her Master. And passing away with these thoughts, one leaves the spot with an awakened sense of the sanctifying influence of such goodness.

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CHAPTER IX.

CLIMATE OF TARRAGONA. CONVENT OF POBLET. SOUTHERN RAILWAY COASTWISE. TORTOSA. BEWARE OF HASTY ADVICE ABOUT WINTER RESIDENCE FOR INVALIDS. SAGUNTO. ANCIENT THEATRE-WALLSCASTLE. ROUTE TO VALENCIA.

HOWEVER bright the sky and genial the atmosphere of Tarragona usually is, in autumn and spring, it must not be concluded, as has been incorrectly done by Mr. Ford, that "as a winter residence for invalids few places in Europe can equal it." Our own observations incline us to a different opinion; and here, early in March, and late in November, taken in connection with statements made of winter experiences by closely observing foreign residents, these convince us, that for those labouring under laryngeal and pulmonary diseases the winter climate of Tarragona is neither comfortable nor safe. The temperature sometimes is as low as 25° Fahrenheit; snow occasionally falls; and the north-west wind is cold. and piercing, at that season. Though cheery sunshine and balmy airs, come at times to throw a kindlier influence abroad, yet, with the sick and sensitive, they cannot counteract the disastrous effects that often ensue. from wind and frost, when English home comforts are not to be had at any price. A brick pavement, ricketty windows, and a brasero of coals smothered in ashes, will

scarcely be considered welcome substitutes, at such a time, for a carpeted floor, tapestried curtains with inside shutters, and a blazing fire giving the brightness and warmth around which cluster the hopes and affections of the Briton and American. The truth is, that there is probably no place on the Continent of Europe, where the climate is so uniformly warm, bright, and dry, in winter, as to make the consideration of in-door comforts a matter of no importance. And in deciding between places, although comparative climatic advantages should weigh heavily upon the question, yet, even where these are not quite equal, the considerations in favour of the less desirable, of good food, fires, and service, and freedom from revolutionary disturbances and the annoyances of bad local government, may well incline the invalid to its selection. And thus thinking he will not be apt to choose Tarragona for a winter residence.

If the traveller shall have come from Lerida to Tarragona by the short cut, instead of by the way of Barcelona, the Convent of Poblet fell in his way. Otherwise the most convenient route to it will be from Tarragona by rail twenty-seven miles to Montblanch a decaying old town, and thence six miles on foot, donkey, or a country cart, to this once celebrated Cistercian retreat. It was not ecclesiastical rank alone which made Poblet the monument of vast wealth that it was. Princely patronage in life, and entombment in death, brought to it privileges, riches, and a prestige, that gave to it a formidable power; which finally, by its abuses and cruelties, brought upon it the vengeful arm of a frenzied people. It is now a melancholy ruin. Aye,