the double-headed Austrian eagle, and surmounted, as also supported on each side, by a sculptured pomegranate; the bursting rhind of which, and intermediate granules (granatum in Latin, granada in Spanish, meaning granular), like the hills on which the city is built and the clustering houses in the valley between, being said to have given origin to the name and arms of the city of Granada.

This Puerta de las Granadas is the principal entrance to the Alhambra hill, the highest of the Sierra foot-hills among which is spread out the present town with a population of 80,000. And it is this hill which possesses greatest interest to the traveller, whether viewed in a historical, or a romantic, artistic, and picturesque sense. It presents two plateaus of table-land separated by an intervening valley. The eastern of these-to the right on entering the gate of Charles Vis crowned by the Torres Vermejos, so called from their vermilion colour, given by the ferruginous properties of the rock, and of the earth forming the brick, of which they were built. The towers and walls of the Alhambra fortress generally, have the same hue, from a like cause. These Vermilion towers are said by some to date back to the days of the Phoenicians; while others refer their erection to the later times of the Carthagenians and Romans; for whom, in succession, they are reputed to have done duty of ward and watch over the dependent town below. But if their foundation be of that remote period, as parts of the interior dilapidated walls of defence toward the town would seem to indicate, certainly the chief part of the now standing towers are Moorish, as shown by the similarity of plan and build

ing to other unquestionably Moorish towers, as well as to the presence over gateway and doors of the horseshoe arch of Arab architecture. There is no doubt that at this later time they formed part of the fortification of the Alhambra, for portions of the ruined wall connecting them with the Torre de la Vela, and what was once the Arsenal, are still found behind the houses nearest the Puerta de las Granadas at the top of the Calle de los Gomeles.

Three avenues lead from within this gate of Charles V. One winding to the right up to the Vermilion towers. A second to the left, by a porter's lodge, fountain, and cross, ascending steeply to the main entrance of the fortress; and along which the Saracen formerly sought seclusion and repose, after fight and foray among those Christians, who, through successive generations, and from the Cavern of Covadonga in the Asturian Pyrenees, slowly, but surely, had driven him to his last stronghold of the Sierra Nevada. And a third avenue of gentler acclivity, a magnificent Alameda, with bordering Paseos the most of the way, following the line of the intervening valley, embanked in verdure, and shaded by a dense forest of ivy-draped elms, hanging their festoons from tree to tree, and dropping their tresses as if in dalliance with the passer-by. These beautiful memorials of England's rural pride, were sent by her warrior Duke of Wellington, to replace a former growth of giant cork trees, bequeathed by the Moor, but which fell a sacrifice to Spanish cupidity. As we climbed slowly this last avenue, in the still moonlight, the stately elms like sentinels wrapped in their own shadows, seemed to pass us as spectres of the dead come

to re-visit, and mourn the loss of a spot, adorned by them with the elegancies of art, and the graces of sentiment; and about which romantic history, and the charms of a poetic tradition, still linger, to awaken interest, and repay the toil of travel. Thus we came to two hotels; that on the left bearing the name of the tower, rising shattered, yet sternly proud even in its ruin, behind it-Los Siete Suelos. The other, on the right, called in honour of that American, whose literature has given a new grace even to the Alhambra. There we stopped at the Fonda de Washington Irving; where we found comfortable apartments, an excellent table, good attention, and sheltered galleries-looking out on gardens and fountains-for exercise, when wet weather forbade exposure.

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CHAPTER XII.

GRANADA-THE ALHAMBRA. PUERTA DE LOS CARROS. TORRE DE JUSTICIA. PUERTA JUDICIARIA. "THE SON OF THE ALHAMBRA." "TALES OF THE ALHAMBRA " NOT INTENDED FOR A "HANDBOOK." PLAZA DE LOS ALGIBES. TORRE DEL VINO. ALCAZABA—KASSĀBAH, PRISON. TORRE DE LA VELA. PALACE OF CHARLES V. ENTRANCE TO THE ALHAMBRA PALACE.

THE dawning light is apt to awaken one who finds himself among scenes consecrated by chivalry and genius. And the red walls and towers-made ruddier by the rosy light of early morn-on which from the upper front windows of the Washington Irving Hotel the inmate looks, may well tempt him to stroll forth, despite the weariness and vexations of previous travel. With the noble-minded and brave, the spirit rarely brooks the mastery of the body: and such, when the portal of life and being is thrown open for enjoyment, find themselves rewarded, by resisting the seductions of couch and curtains. Nowhere is this realization of pleasure greater than at the Alhambra. For although its mysteries of enchantment may not be penetrated on the instant, yet there is a something so delightful in threading the approaches to them, amid charms which nature herself has cast about as if to lure the pilgrim onward, that he who obeys the behest of his longing will

be sure to feel, that the realities of being are better than the unsubstantial dreams of the sleeper.

No one coming to Granada stands in pause what to do first. Whatever other attractions may be found in and around the city, he came to see the Alhambra; and there it stands, face to face with him-its long line of seamed and scarred wall, stretching to the right and left; interrupted at intervals by towers, shattered, and as if shaken nearly to their fall, by ruthless invaders; who, constrained to abandon, sought to destroy this lingering gem of Moorish art. Turning to the left from the hotel door, and in a few paces further, to the right round the corner of the hotel on the opposite side of the way, a carriage-road is found of easy grade, bordered by little cane-wicket fences, and overhung by elms; between the stately trunks of which, on one side, are seen the walls of the Alhambra fortress-palace ; while on the other a thick wood of like trees makes shade for beds of wild violets, bathed in dew, listening to nightingales and waterfalls, which make music for them in the fragrant spring and summer morns. Halfway up the ascent, the road divides into two; the right, for carriages to a gateway-Puerta de los Carros or del Carril-without architectural or other attractions, save massiveness and ponderous bars and bolts, to guard this more modern approach within the fortress wall; the left, for pedestrians, leading to the great portal, successively of Moslem and of Christian conquerors—a monument of the glory, and finally of the downfall of Moorish Empire in Western Europe.

Taking the latter road, the lofty Torre de Justicia, overtopping the Gate of Judgment, the Gate of the Law,