edge of the material, close to the border of which the thread penetrates. In the tacking-stitch seam (Fig. 19), the thread runs alternately from one side of the material to the other, leaving on both sides a vacancy between each stitch. This stitch has the disadvantage of easily becoming undone, as the thread can be drawn through the material with great facility, owing to the small amount of friction. This peculiarity makes it, on the other hand, indispensable as a provisional method of fastening, the thread being again capable of use. For this purpose, the stitches on the one side are made long (1 to 14 in.), on the other side short (in.). From this application the stitch takes its name. This stitch has also the advantage of great elasticity, is quickly formed by hand, and is especially made use of in forming folds in dresses, &c. The whip stitch is employed in connecting the edges of two pieces of material, as it allows of their being drawn close together, without forming a perceptible elevation. It is mostly made use of for articles of clothing, the seams of which are in contact with the body, as shirts, gloves, &c.; or for such articles as are intended to apppear seamless, as sheets, &c. There is more friction in this stitch between the material and the thread, and it is therefore much less liable to become unfastened. The quilting-stitch is the strongest, and also presents the best appearance. It is the most in use, and is indispensable in nearly all descriptions of needlework. The stitches are generally made very short on the surface of the work, and longer on the wrong side, and then answer the same purpose as the tacking stitch.

The first attempts which were made to accomplish

needlework by means of machines, were confined, as might be expected, to an exact imitation of sewing by hand. The process of gathering, especially in the manufacture of calico, was of sufficient importance to induce attempts at the construction of machinery to supersede manual labour. For this purpose an apparatus was for a long time in use, by which the calico in its passage between two fluted rollers was so folded as to allow of needles, which were fixed at various points of the extreme circumference of the rollers, penetrating several folds of the material at once. This arrangement underwent many modifications, and remained in use till its final displacement by the modern sewing-machine. The introduction of the needle with two points, and the eye in the centre, occurred in 1755, and was primarily intended to dispense with the continual inversion of the needle in sewing by hand. It was, however, soon employed in the construction of machines which were intended to imitate hand sewing, and nearly all machines which were constructed with this view, were on the principle of a double-pointed needle. The end of the thread was usually fastened to the eye in the centre, and the needle in its passage through the cloth was alternately drawn backwards and forwards by means of two grippers; the one above releasing its hold of the needle on the latter being caught by the gripper below. It was on this principle that the embroidering machine of Heilmann was constructed, which created so great a sensation at the time of its introduction, and in which several double-pointed needles were simultaneously in

motion.

The construction of the so-called cobbler's or saddler's

seam, is somewhat similar (Plate VI., Fig. 19), being in reality only a double-tack stitch made by two threads crossing each other in their passage through the same needle-hole, so that the space left on either side between the stitches of each thread is covered by those of the other. Of course, a needle is required for each thread, and for these needles, two grippers are necessary on each side. The action of the grippers is, however, far from regular, which induced the construction of needles with a small barbed point, similar to those employed in crochet work. These penetrating the material without being drawn through caught the thread, and on their return drew it through the needle-hole. These needles could, therefore, be fastened to a holder, and their motion regulated with great certainty. To form the cobbler's seam, the two needles must work from opposite sides of the material, the holes in which may, in the case of very tough materials, as leather, be made by a stiletto-like instrument, to prevent injury to the needles. This description of machine has not, however, found much favour; and, in fact, all machines in which hand sewing is attempted to be imitated, whether with double or hookpointed needles, whether forming tack, whip, or quilting-stitch, are of but small practical importance. sewing by hand, the thread cannot be used of a greater length than the distance the hand can be stretched from the material to be sewn. The length of thread must always remain very limited, and the consequent frequent interruption in the work causes both delay and hindrance. This disadvantage has, in machines imitating hand sewing, up to the present not been removed, and should even this imperfection be surmounted,

In

two still greater difficulties would present themselves, as the thread becomes much worn from its constant passage through the material, and each stitch requires much time in its formation.

B. THE VARIOUS DESCRIPTIONS OF MACHINE SEAMING.

It having been soon perceived that the imitation of hand sewing by machines was attended by difficulties so great as to be almost insurmountable, induced the discovery of some other description of stitch which could be more easily effected by a machine, and which should both possess the most valuable peculiarity of the whip and quilting-stitches in not being liable to come undone, and also allow of the use of a thread at least some yards long. One of the best of such seams formed by a single thread is shown, Plate VI., Figs. 22 and 23. The second of these differs from the first only through the thread of the loops on the under side of the material being twisted half round. Another seam varying but slightly from the preceding is shown in Fig. 24. Its appearance is not so fine and regular as that of the others owing to the spaces left between the stitches, and requires nearly the same quantity of thread. Its advantage consists in a smoother join on the wrong side of the material. But few of such machines have, however, been constructed and come into use; still less such machines as are intended to produce the seams described below, and for which a double thread is required. It is true they produce a seam which cannot come undone, and show on the surface a plain smooth series of stitches, but the mechanical arrangements are so complicated that there is but small probability of their coming into

general use. Fig. 20 shows a description of quiltingstitch with a knot in the lower side, which forms a heavy ridge, and has a very irregular appearance. This is in a less degree the case in the seam shown in Fig. 25, in which the loops on the lower side are more simple, and the knots not so thick, while in that shown in Fig. 26, the bottom thread simply connects the loops of the top thread by means of a knot. The only practical permanent machine stitch is the so-called machine quiltingstitch, which is also formed by a double thread, and which we shall in future simply call the quilting-stitch. A very similar one, but formed by a treble thread, is represented in Fig. 21, in which the lower side is also shown. On account of the inconveniences attaching to it, it is but seldom employed.

The seams which have been enumerated have been styled permanent. By this is not intended to be said that they cannot be undone, but that by simply pulling the ends of the thread the seam does not rip without the thread breaking. A permanent seam has therefore the peculiarity of remaining perfectly secure and lasting, even if here and there a stitch should be broken or the thread worn.

Other descriptions of seams may be divided into such as are easily and such as are with difficulty undone. The latter remain perfect if only the end of the thread, or the end of one thread of such as are formed by a double or treble thread, is pulled. Of these the stitch invented by Grover and Baker, a description of which will be given later, deserves the preference. A somewhat similar stitch formed by needles passing diagonally through the material, which is thereby much