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position, and have not been reached the West are, above all nations, liable. by any rumour whatever of the inte- In Munster, and the neighbouring disgrity of that calculator of the human tricts where the human understandrace-Anacharsis Cloots flume. ing is scarce, the arrival of a stranger
Yet those gentlemen are not with- excites a general stir through the out curiosity ; quite the reverse. They thicket; the natives come by families have it of the most open mouthed, and villages from the farthest cover, rapacious, gastric kind. “ Vasto im- crowd round him with Otaheitean jumanis hiatu.” Nothing is too large for bilation, load his integuments with their deglutition, nothing too tough the spontaneous beef and claret of their and ferreous for their digestion. The lovely and teeming soil, and provision orgasm must be supplied with food, or him for six months to come. Yet all it will seize on the most irregular pro- this is done in the genuine cunning vender within its reach. I look upon of barter ; their benevolence is lavishthose late excesses, those burnings of ed only to extract from him those prebarns, those crimped curates, and proc- cious novelties, the hornspoons and tors roasted whole, and the general cal- blue beads of English gossipry, the cination which has gone through the obsolete of the London market, but country, as nothing more than a strong to them more precious than gold and development of that resistless appetite diamond. for news, to which those Athenians of
Tuesday, August 20. This was the day of the Drawing- of pelf, and his Poor Richard is the room. The ladies were early at their twelve tables of shop-keeping. Hume's post; and when the King arrived at example turned the brains of the Scotch the palace in a whirlwind of Scots Literati of the last age into amalgams Greys, he found the presence-cham- of arrogant metaphysics and bitter ber crowded with the fairest faces and scepticism. The success of a popular haughtiest blood of Scotland. His name is always dangerous in a proMajesty made his way through this vince. All rushes along with the curdangerous battalia, and did the ho- rent of the hour. The frith is too nours with royal gallantry. A thou- narrow for the counteracting streams, sand dames of every age and line were that make the health, and preserve to be saluted on the right cheek; and the level of the English mind. The this perplexing, pleasing privilege, was Scotch are at length beginning to dismarked by perfect observance. The cover that the favourite speculations general appearance was as dazzling as of their philosophy, “ falsely so callplumes and diamonds could make it. ed,” were mysticism and moonshine. But if the eye luxuriates, the memory Scepticism has been exiled, and, a few grows weary, and I will tell you no meager and decaying casuists exceptmore of tissues and blonds, golden ed, men are not ashamed to acknowlama, and feathers that might have ledge the common truths that give crested the helmet of Arthur or Ama- comfort to mankind. dis. The Archers kept the entrance,
It has often been among my muand they were the very models of sings, how the Scotch, a sagacious and courtesy. The casual pressure of the solid stepping people, cautious of the ladies, passionate for a sight of royalty, waste of time, and loving to lay a subwas kept off by slackened, silken-co- stantial grasp on the good things of life, vered bows, that might have reminded should have ever abandoned an hour them of the weapons of Cupid him- to metaphysics. Voltaire's image of self.
the science is at once witty and true,On the way to Holyrood, I was a minuet, when the parties, after all struck by an object, of all others the their turnings and windings, end on most direct contrast to the pride, pomp, the same spot where they began. The and circumstance of the day,-a tomb, science of mind is palpably probibited the little classical tower that stands to man. It may form a noble and unover the grave of David Hume. The limited treasure of discovery for our common jail has now grown up beside disembodied powers. But here, after a it, and the Scotch seem to have wisely few rudiments scarcely above truisms, forgotten the homage once so fashion- and known to every generation since ably and foolishly paid to the memory the flood, we feel the boundary. All of their metaphysician. Franklin de- the rest is clouds and air, a vast, uncir. graded the American mind into a love cumscribed region, where nature may
prepare her wonders, but where she and the Court dress, in itself hostile to keeps them secret at least from us,—an grace, and here unwisely, because unempire of vacancy, where our presump- nationally worn, gave a general resemtion may attempt to penetrate, but, blance, but the physiognomy of the after all its fantasies and hallooings, land could not be mistaken. must return in profitlessness and fa- from time to time the dark eye, pearly tigue. The experiment can now scarce- skin, and crimson cheek of English ly amuse even clowns and children. loveliness. These were rare, for beauty
In the progress of the ladies to is the rarest product of the earth, and, court, the elite of Scotland passed be to my eye, is rapidly perishing. The fore me.
This is one of the advan- multitude had a strong national simitages of the time. The wonders that larity. No race so seldom mixes its I must have otherwise sought through blood with the stranger. lakes and deserts, through valleys im- The Scotch are not a melancholy penetrable with furze, and mountains people, but they look an anxious one ; sullen with storm, are all here toge- and whether it be from the common ther. I have here to wait shivering knowledge of their history, or from the on no shore till the boatman, the lord true writing of their features, I should of the passage, ceases to be drunk, and pronounce them a race of habitual hoconveys me to the hopes of heath and pesty, good sense, and determination, a supper. I have here to crouch at the but unconvinced that to enjoy, is, in door of no Western Laird, the auto- some measure, to obey; and choosing crat of the surrounding rocks, and sup- by instinct to make their little solitary plicate the hospitality of an unknown encampment among the thorns and tongue. The remote curiosities of the tempest-beaten places of mortality. realm, richer than all its Staffas and As to the men-But what is the imIonas, are concentrated here. It would portance of a man's face ? It has all its be ungenerous and untrue to deny that uses, if it have the necessary apertures Scotland has a right to be proud of for light and food. I will touch the them.
topic no more. Is thy lover a mineralo. Some of the females whom I saw today are among the belles of St James's ;
Wednesday, August 21. The King was invisible to-day, and and darkened with curtains, that in the all Edinburgh was disturbed, through mid-day sun covered all our visages all its municipality downwards,-Bai- with a fiery purple. The room looked lies, Deputes, &c.
a very noble cavern, very ill inhabited.
Scotland is contributing its whole “In the lowest deep a lower deep,”
edible opulence to this entertainment. by the rumour that the Procession Dukes and Lairds are sending daily from Holyroodhouse to the Castle was grouse and venison ; the trading towns to be postponed from to-morrow till making donatives of fish ; and London, Saturday. I will not pain you with with a surpassing munificence, worthy the shadows of mischief and misfor- of the largest and most turtle-loving of tune conjured up before civic eyes, cities, has sent up Alderman Curtis in by this disastrous contingency; and the highest condition, and ready dressamong the chief, the utter ruin of the ed in tartans. Saturday's Grand Banquet. The King, I dined with some agreeable men. weary as he must be of publicity, did I have found no conversatiou superior on this occasion what he has done from to that of the Scotch; clear, intelligent, the beginning-gave up his own incli- and original. But it has its peculiarination, and cheered the hearts of all ties. I have never found myself on a the prospective sharers of fete and soil where the ventilation and winnowfeast, by finally fixing the Procession ing of character was so habitual. I, for Thursday.
of course, do not speak of the paltry The Banquet will be the closing pomp detractions, which can find their way of Scotland. I went to-day to see the only by chance among men of a cersite of this exhibition of loyal appetite, tain rank of society. But intellect, in the Parliament House—the Scotch acquirement, professional skill, and Westminster Hall. I found it crowded professional celebrity, are desperately with the curious, scattered over with discussed. This is amusing, but forforms and the preparatives for feasting, midable to the alien and the sojourn
er, unaccustomed to so rapid and so ritative than Count Caraman, fiddle fatal a fire. I am not among the most in hand, commanding that I should nervous of mankind; but this style bow to this side and courtesy to that, of disquisition shuts up my faculties and exhaust my life in the entrechats at once. It must be for those of higher and queue de chiens of boudoir and hopes to have the dignity of dissection; Morocco-bound idolatry? Why is fabut for me, it is enough to see “ Thé shion, that master of the ceremonies lancets prepared, and the doctors all to fools, to issue its edict upon me? met ;"-life grows silent, and retires You shall bow at three yards off to within me, and I perish accordingly.
for he has visited the TrosI am determined henceforth to be- sachs, and is supposed to review himlieve, that conversation may be too self; you shall kneel upon your left acute for common and comfortable knee to
for he is of the AlIn my kingdom, table-wisdom bion, and has the rarest collection shall be among the high offences of of Pistrucci's Modern Antiques ; but the state. I will have “ Dulce est to
shall thrice knock your desipere in loco," written 'at the head forehead upon the ground, for he is of my statutes in letters of diamond. the chief of the Black-letter Eunuchs, The Sagesse de trop is to me a wall of the Kislar Aga of first editions, and iron. I can do nothing till I find turns the key upon a Harem of MSS. some touch of man about my enter- in vellum unapproached by the eye of tainer---till we can talk over our fellow- man.-This, if I have done, I will do fragility, and sympathise in mutual no more. Nature will struggle for its flannel. I must receive the right hand erectness at last. of jest, I must share the secret of that
“The blood will follow where the pincers treasured and ripened foolery, which, tear." to every man, sleeps at the bottom of the bin for those whom we love,
And though I should have proceeded sleeps underneath all the studious in- ten thousand miles in the direction of genuity and determined repartee of the Kotou, I will, like my Lord Amthat Pandora's box, the heart, and is herst, grow indignant in the crisis of a consolation for them all.
humiliation, revolt at the sight of the For this give me the Irishman above crowned Calmucks themselves, and in all men, rogue as he is. He embarks
the bristling of wrathful pens, and his whole soul at once; he has no cau
the remonstrances of Blue-Stockings tious and attaching cordage to the trembling for their tea, retrieve my shore; he casts no dilatory look be- honour, and return as untrampled as
I hind ; his wisdom is steeped in foolery, as his foolery is in wisdom; and in the midst of the wildest extrava- As I walked home along the fine gance of buoyant veins and habits in- Terrace of Prince's Street, then as digenous to claret, he explodes some desolate and still as a dreamer could thought vivid enough to blind a whole desire, I was caught by a blaze towards caravan of philosophers.
the Bridge connecting the New with To this, as to all national characters, the Old Town. And there I saw, floatthere are exceptions. Scotland has its ing in the air, a hundred feet from men of spirit, ease, and pleasantry; the valley,—all above and below the and, to an Imbecile-hunter, Ireland blackness of darkness, a vast diadem could supply occasional specimens wor- of fire. There was not the twinkle of a thy of the pages of Aldrovandus. taper, not a star to divide the honours
Yet I like the fearlessness of the with this gorgeous emblem of the soveScotch conversation tenfold better than reignty of Erebus. This had escaped the conventional courteous cant of me in the general lightings of the city. English clubs and conversaziones. I In the morning I visited the site of am disgusted to the midriff with the
the magic, and found the skeleton of paltry jargon of panegyric and insin- a crown perched on the chimney of a cerity that perverts truth in every gas manufactory! Disheartening as third word talked in the atmosphere this was, it shone out again at night of London literature. Why am I to in magnificence, without a rival,-the live in this hopeless hypocrisy? Why crown that "strong imagination"might am I, with a spine of eternal curva- have seen" dropping upon the head of ture, and a prostrate soul, to dance the the usurper”- -a meteor worthy of the wearisome quadrille of unwilling ad- wierd sisters-a thing of true demoniac miration, with etiquette more autho- splendour.
came. * * *
Thursday, August 22. The High Street is a very singular, And here I hover, a luxurious and and picturesque, and memorable range lofty drone, looking down on the obof building. In the Scottish history it scure hive ; an idle and elevated mite is classic ground; many of the most gazing on the minute toils and thouimportant events of the monarchy sands of the huge and curiously-delhave passed under its roofs. It has ved cheese. been the scene of feudal grandeur, and
“Suave mari magno." of feudal crimes ; divided as it now is between trade and the lowest orders, But the High Street is bright in the it was once the place of palaces; and blaze of day, and with its parapets and here the great chieftains of a disturb- pinnacles, the height and wildness, ed and loosely-governed realm-re- and rich, antique confusion of its arsisted the government, or oppressed it chitecture, winding and sweeping away by their aid-held court and festival down the hill, it has sometimes had to -indulged in the wild luxury of ba- me the look of the most beautiful and ronial life, or perished by the axe and impressive object that architecture the dagger.
ever gave the eye, an unroofed CaIn this street, and those shooting thedral. The Cathedral was now full. from its sides, those fibres projected The procession commenced at half from the enormous spine, is to be past two, and moved from Holyrood found all the peculiarity of Edin- House under a roar of congratulation. burgh. The New Town is handsome, The sky had promised rain, and its but the Old Town is unique. The promise now began to be amply fulfillmodern improvements may be copied ed. The glory of the naked galleries wherever stone can be laid on stone; was delated in a moment, and never the High Street has a stately locality was popular good will more severely to which Europe can find no equal. drenched. Still the procession asThe Corporation have made some at- cended through waving handkerchiefs tempts to alter this venerable street, and applauding hands till it reached and have pulled down a cross in its cen- the Castle-hill. There the entrance of tre, and an antique gate which marked the multitude was forbidden, and the one of its divisions. Against this sa- pageant, unpressed by the crowd, excrilege, mulct and imprisonment ought panded in all its beauty. Heralds, to have been denounced, and its aid- squires, and chieftains, the hereditary ers and abettors should have been fix- officers of the throne, bearing badges ed in the loftiest stocks, for all their and batons, followed in glittering sucfurs. Cross and Gate ought to be re- cession, and intervening guards of instated without loss of time, and a Highlanders and cavalry. Froissart Committee appointed to see that, for might have dwelt with delight on the the future, not a stone or tile should be stately bearing of these Chevaliers ; changed in this great national memo- and some anonymous and well-known rial. It is in the view of the closes and novelist to come, when we are beyond wynds, from a safe distance, however, tournament or tale, will tell of the that my most amusing speculations crimson coat that flowed down to the have been stirred. In all places the po- golden spurs of my Lord Lyon-the pulace, their habits and habitats, are green velvet tunic gold-embroidered my supreme attraction. Here I stand the golden rigol round the cap of upon their bridges, and look upon a crimson--the enamelled staff flowered subterranean people. Curricles and with golden thistles,--and the Arabian corporations, troops and train bands, caparisoned with gold that he caracoled are passing round me; and in the midst and caprioled with such knightly dexof a tumult that shakes the ground, I terity. This brilliant figure was Lord see, at an almost telescopic depth be- Kinnoul. The Sword of State, an low, another race utterly untouched by enormous two-handed blade, worthy the disturbance upon the surface,-a of the grasp of Arthur or Wallace, was plutonic tribe, a mole-eyed colony, un- borne by the Earl of Morton, in a conscious of the sun, a busy, dim ge- modern uniform, that looked humilianeration, vaulted over by the inextri- ted beside the superb barbarism of the cable vapour of the mine, and winding old costume. The Ilonourable Morits way through chasms and valleys of ton Stuart, the son of Lord Moray, stone as black and precipitous as the carried the Sceptre, a short staff with mountain from which they were torn. a large head of crystal. His dress
was simple green, but his plaid, his verning spirits ; the very arbiters of splendid arms, and the beautiful char- the fate of mankind. There stood one, ger on which he sat with singular who held in his hand the blood and grace, made him conspicuous.
the hopes and energies, of forThe Duke of Hamilton, in the dress ty millions of men—a chief, the tramp of a courtier of the first Charles, the of whose foot could be felt to the wall velvet hat, satin slashed doublet, and of China. Here stood Prussia, here deep Vandyked collar, bore the Crown. Austria, not the capped and capariThe King was escorted by the Archers, soned riders among a gilded group of and their General, Lord Hopetoun, courtiership, but beings whose look with Lord Elgin ; Lord Errol as High was fortune ; the concentered will and Constable, and Sir Thomas Bradford, power of myriads and mighty regions. the Commander of the Forces, rode on Round these rode Wellington, and the right and left of the carriage. On Blucher, and Schwartzenberg, and a the King's arrival at the Castle gates, whole dazzling circle of illustrious he was received with some customary names, in every garb and ornament of formalities by the Officers, and led war ; beings that no man could have within the walls. In a few minutes looked on without the memory of after, he appeared on the battlements. matchless victories--the living monuThe day had been sullen, and it had ments of supreme intellect and valour. now grown wild and gusty. Sunshine I am the man of a free country, and a might have made the spectacle less jealous tiine ; but I might be the sternmagnificent. All before the eye was est hater of despotism, and yet acthe tossing of plumes, and the bowing knowledge that here I felt my spirit of standards that could scarcely be instinctively overwhelmed and bowed held in their bearers' hands, and troops down before the Genius of Royalty. massed under cloaks of every hue, long There was now in my sight the relines and groups of scarlet, and blue, presentatives of sovereignty, Italian, and tartan. But the noblest sight was German, and British, up to the dark the Castle. The ranges of wall and ages; the blood of crowned generaembrazure from the ground were
tions ; one of the class that move upon crowded with the garrison; and the high ridge of life, while millions above them all, on the brow of the on millions, like me and mine, creep highest battery, stood the King, alone. on through the valley, and are gatherThe moment of his appearance was
ed to the dust without a name—the sublime—he was hailed with a ge- small and splendid kindred, whose neral shout, and a clangour of drum birth is a national rejoicing, and whose and trumpet--a grand, universal up- life is a course of all the pomps and roar. What might be the feeling, enjoyments that the world can lavish the proud and delighted exaltation from its treasures ; fenced, honoured, of heart, of a being, to whom every and consecrated by all that policy has voice of this homage was sent up, of wisdom, and law of strength, and and who saw from that superb stand religion of ceremonial, the high altars the sea, the land, and the people, all of the temple of society. his own, it must be given only to a King to know.
After a short interval, the Castle Nothing more deeply stirs my con- commenced the royal salute; and betempt than the paltry and calculating tween the discharges, his Majesty, habit of the age, that will see nothing though the rain now fell heavily, was in a monarch but the mere human seen waving his hat in answer to the material—the thews and sinews of our acclamations below. His figure is common nature. This spirit of le- manly, and, from his position, it was velling is a spirit of vanity. They find seen to great advantage. Above him that Majesty has no more limbs than was nothing but the royal standard themselves, and are comforted. I re- whirling in the blast like a disturbed collect, at one of the reviews of the cloud. The battery at his feet, hid Allies in Paris, to have been, by a sud- him from time to time in bursts of den movement of the field, enveloped smoke, that suddenly gave him to in a circle of the sovereigns and gene- view again. Lower and lower still, rals. In this presence, I could not, the parapets and ports were filled with for my soul, conceive that I saw no- soldiery. The King's next portrait thing better than the mere human fa- should be taken from the half-moon bric—nothing better than their own battery of Edinburgh Castle. grooms. I saw before me great go