CHAPTER XII

OUR NEW ALLIES

'Brother, give me thy helping hand;
Brother, stand thou by me.
We are the vanguards of the land
And the firstborn of the free:

I in the East as thou in the West.

We are twin-we are twin, and our mother's breast
Is the civilizing sea.'

No greater contrast can be conceived than that between the conditions of European life in China and in Japan. The notes made for the last chapter were written from Shanghai in the midst of a foreign population living in a state of veiled anxiety as to the ultimate outcome of the growing unrest in China. Japan is reached by passing through a transformation-scene as pleasing as it is astonishing. The change is like coming out of the gloom of night into the sunshine of early morning. In place of sullen, suspicious distrust the visitor receives a bright and unaffected greeting. Charmed by his surroundings, fascinated by his hosts, he forgets the 'yellow peril' which he has left behind-forgets that he is in the Far East, throws off his English

reserve, and, catching up the light spirit of the people, reciprocates the welcome which is everywhere extended to him.

The months of April and May are always the season for Japanese festivity, and last year the triumphant conclusion of the war was made the occasion for special national rejoicing, for some few weeks Japan being seen at its best in holiday garb. During the whole period of the writer's visit to the country Tokyo was en fête. Nothing can be in better taste than the modest attitude of the Japanese in regard to their victory over Russia. There is a total absence of that aggressive spirit of militarism which has often been found to take possession of Western nations after the termination of a successful war. The temper of the Government, of the army, of the people, is the same, indicating a quiet, unobtrusive, thoughtful satisfaction with the results achieved. For the purpose of the public triumph the large open space outside the Imperial Palace at Tokyo was turned into a vast field of war trophies- rows of field - guns captured at the battles of the Yalu, Liaoyang, the Shaho, and Mukden; an avenue of great cannons and howitzers brought from Port Arthur; thousands upon thousands of Russian rifles piled behind the guns; limbers, waggons, ambulances, shot and shell, swords and lances-all arranged with the studied precision of the Japanese mind. Round these trophies daily collected great numbers of country people, who flocked to the capital to take part