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equally well, with all its shades, is Apennines, and entered Etruria, As in false taste, and scarcely accordant
we follow at the distance of ages the with Christian simplicity.
'footsteps of these conquerors of the earth,
the delusive interest they have left is felt, Our friendly fault-finding is now even though one has overstepped • ]] uver; and with hearty good-will and mezzo del cammin' di nostra vita,' and is respect to the excellent authoress, fast hastening to mix one's ignoble dust
with that of heroes so resplendent.” vol. i. we now proceed to set her right with our readers, by a few extracts from
Miss Morton and her companion her own pages.
arrived at Terni, on the evening of The following is her first entrance Saturday, which we mention for the into Italy, on her road to Milan.
sake of adding their Christian exLooking from our Belvidere, to the ample, to that of the comparatively left was the Ticino, running down to the few travellers who, like them, know plains of Lombardy, where it throws its waters into the Po, about three miles be
the privilege of the day of sacred low Pavia, with a gradual fall of four rest, both for the body and the soul. hundred and eighty teet. Over the lake, We censure France and Italy; but, to the north, were the Alps of Switzer alas! look at the scenes in our own land and Piémont;--the atmosphere was delicious. The soft Ticino reflected the
land. Look at the poor man; look beam of Venus from its bosom; the stars at the rich man ; from the huckster gradually adorned the deep Italian blue at the corners of our streets, to our of the heavens ; and the calm stillness legislators and cabinet minisiers, was only interrupted by the occasional including some whose guilt is the paddling of the boatmen's oars. distant Alps formed a beautiful line on greater, because they know better, the horizon; the evening star brought and
and once professed better; and dear friends, and scenes long past, to whose consciences we are sure must mind; and, as I looked upon the clear flowing Ticino, I thought of Scott's lines lacerate them to agony, as often as addressed to the Teviot:
they call to mind the holy counsels • Unlike the tide of human things,
of departed sires, and perhaps the Which, though it runs with ceaseless buddings of their own early days, flow,
before the snares of ambition, or the Reflects each grief, reflects each crime,
thirst of lucre bad drawn them into Our earliest years were doomed to know. vol. i. p. 14.
the unhallowed vortex of Sunday From Milan we track her to Lodi. business, or Sunday dissipation. An
paper has been just issued Quitting Milan, we again entered cxtended plains, rich in vegetation, luxus by the Society for the due Obserriant in vineyards and fig-trees. The vance of the Lord's-day addressed Italian here spoken we scarcely under to the higher and more influential stood, as the people do not take the trou classes of society.
Would that all 12. to pronounce the final vowels, Ma
whom it concerns, would read it, rignano on the Lambro was the scene of a victory obtained by Francis I. in 1515. and seriously weigh its appeals and A magnificent aqueduct extends hence arguments. over a space of thirty-five miles to the Po. • “ As we drove to Terni we kept look
Crossing the Lambro, we arrived at ing back upon the Apennines, which had Lodi.
Lodi!-all is still, as though the received a tint so deep, that it must be pipe of the shepherd had been the only seen to be conceived-almost a crimson sound ever heard in its green meadows. hue. On rising in the morning, we reWe looked back upon Lodi; there is collected that we were in the ancient Innothing interesting in its modern village; teramna, the birth-place of Tacitus the but the sounds of the cannon of Buona bistorian, and surrounded by ruins of parte were heard afar over Europe, as his temples and amphitheatres, and monuformidable artillery forced the bridge, ments of ancient grandeur; but of these blew up its batteries, and defeated the
we saw none : for ONE, with whom the Austrians in 1795. We approached the earth is a very little thing, now claimed Trebbia, and the wandering Po; on the our thoughts-He, the King of kings banks of the former, Hannibal was met and Lord of lords! but oh! how imperby Scipio, wlio was defeated. Sempro- fectly worshipped, amidst the din of the nius next encountered him on the Po; drum of the mountebank, (a woman turnthe victorious arms of Hannibal were ing bead over heels,) and the cries of a again triumphant, and he crossed the public market." vol. i. pp. 61, 62.
Our extracts from Rome must 'the attention from the Hearer of prayer be more considerable. The following to some immaterial incident, true or false,
I observed on the central cross a label, was our author's first essay of its with the words, Bacciando la santa wonders.
croce si acquistano due cento giorni d'in
dulgenza.' What indulgence?' said I, “ We took advantage of a brilliant to an Italian that stood at my elbow. moon to visit the Coliseum ; it is difficult La misericordia di Dio,' he replied, to do justice to that evening's ride. As shrugging up his shoulders, with ill-diswe drove up the Via Sacra, every pillar guised infidelity, And it is upon the and ruin was tinted with a pallid light. cross,—that symbol of free and complete I felt that it was a part of that which pardon,--they dare to attix this lie, and had long been numbered with doubtful offer their niggardly morsel ! things; and yet they stood, marking past It is thus that an idolatrous priestand future judgment. As we entered the hood, whether under the pagan or nominmouldering walls of the Coliseuin, a bell ally Christian dispensation, have always from a distant convent threw a deepand me doled out their miserable help to those lodious sound over the Esquiline ; and a so who have hung upon their lips for consotary bird sent forth a long and piercing note. lation. Thus did priest and people abuse, The moon revealed hundreds of arches under the Jewish dispensation, the symand buttresses; and the broad blue ca bol that God had given for their cure. nopy of heaven spread its magnificent vault And Hezekiah is said to have done right above, bearing on its, bosom an universe in the sight of the Lord, when he reof worlds ; exulting in pristine brightness moved the bigh places and broke the over the gigantic mouldering mass ; and images, and cut down the groves, and brake proclaiming immortality, where the works in pieces the brazen serpent which Moses of man spoke only of decay. A bright had made; for unto those days the childbeam fell on the cross in its centre, and ren of Israel did burn incense unto it.' threw a peaceful sbadow on that arena, If its erection by Moses, and the miracuwhere, amidst the shouts of the multitude, lous use that God had made of it, did not the dying martyrs sealed the truth with save it from destruction when it became their blood. Yes! they sealed the truth an instrument of sin, how shall any other with their blood they had been taught symbol be allowed, when it has the same of the Father! As I sat on a broken pil- destructive tendency? Jar, I could not help reflecting on the “ I had scarcely reached the second light that flows from the sacred page, row of seats, and was observing the disthat of history only leaves us surrounded tant tops of the Apennines as they rose by chaos : here, in Rome, they did err, through the tracery of foliage and of broand do err,not knowing the Scripture, ken arches, when my attention was rivetmor the power of God.' Surely all that ed by the solemn and devout air of a deprive the people of the sacred oracles priest, as he advanced slowly to the foot of God, are worse than the savage beasts of the cross; he knelt, kissed it, and passof the arena : for the pope, and for the ed on. A widow, with her infant, knelt, priests of all nations, the Apocalypse has kissed it, and bathed it with her tears. but one voice :-- If any man shall add One man, with a pallid countenance and unto these things, God shall add unto look of deep abstraction, dragged himself him the plagues that are written in this round the arena on his knees, casting up book: and if any man shall take away a look of entreaty at every station. Whilst from the words of this prophecy, God I contemplated this apparently sincere shall take away his part out of the book searcher after rest, and longed to whisper of life, and ouť of the holy city, and from in his car, God willeth not the death of the things that are written in this book.' a sinner,' we heard solemn chanting, and
“ Having long gazed on the mingled a long procession of monks,cappuccini and lights and shades, and forms, within this sacconi, with torches burning, and prevast amphitheatre, we went to view it ceded by a crucifix, slowly filing through from without. Seen from the Esquiline, the high entrance-arches to perform at the mighty rampart seems to lean its the chapel. 'L'esercizio della via crucis;' breast against the sky, and to mingle with women inixed in with the group, occasionthe stars; the atmosphere of night throw- ally elevating a large black crucifix. They ing a majestic vastness over every object. advanced to the central cross, bent in apThe arch of Constantine stands near, on parent adoration; then passing on to a the once triumphal way; but now only small pulpit on the side, a Capuchin friar, returns a feeble echo to the solitary travel. in his brown cloak and rope and cowl, ler, who exclaims, • The day of triumph ascended, and planted his crucifix at his is passed!' By day (and again at Easter) right hand. The sacconi stood in two we visited these interesting ruins of the long lines, with their tapers burning, and Coliseum. They have made it what they muffled in their cowls, looking to the call “a holy place,' by encircling the arena right and left through their eye-holes. All with fourteen small chapels : in the front the horrors of ancient cruelty, and the of each is a picture, calculated to divert deep deception of modern superstition,
were present to my mind. I looked of which was first bathed with the tears round upon an arena so long stained with of captive Jews, and afterwards with the blood, and an indescribable sensation thril- blood of martyrs and gladiators. It stood led through me. We descended quickly; the companion of the Roman glory; and and, mingling ourselves in the audience, it still exists the ruined survivor of its heard a deep and sonorous voice proclaim, decay. Turning from the Via Sacra into in a long exordium, the blessing of being the Triumphal Way that leads round the born in the Catholic church, "out of foot of the Palatine, we pass by the arch which,' said he, (glancing on the heretics of Constantine, first dedicated to Trajan. around,) you cannot be saved-out of Its three divisions are ornamented with which the devil will, at the hour of death, eight fluted Corinthian columns; its basreceive you; but we,' said he, 'adore the reliefs relate, on the side of the Coliseum, sacred cross.' (Then seizing his crucifix to acts of Trajan and the sacrifices he with the utmost violence, he affected to offered to the god Mars, Apollo, and weep over it.)
Yes! we will be faith- Diana. There is no record of the perseful to thee--we will be faithful to our cution of Christians on this arch of holy mother, the church. Yes, my dear triumph; but faithful history turns our brethren, we must practise all she or.
eye on the amphitheatre. Who is that dains!' And then, giving the cross a feeble captive just brought on the arena ? tremendous shake, he replaced it in the —it is Ignatius. He, too, must die at corner, recovered in an instant from his Rome,'—sentenced there to join the numbitter anguish, and the whole train moved ber of those of whom the world was not off, two and two, chanting and lighting the worthy.' He sailed from Asia; and, enmeridian sun, to the various chapels. They tering the Tyrrhene sea, and passing by approached, presented their cross; and several islands and cities, at length he their voices, uniting in fine harmony, died came in view of Puteoli, which being away beneath the ruined arches, through shewn, he hastened to go forth, desirous which I caught a last glimpse of the slow to tread in the footsteps of the Apostle procession." vol. i. pp. 68_71.
Paul; but a violent wind arising, did not The reader will perceive by this allow him to accomplish this object. See extract, how inseparably Scripture execution, praying to the Son of God to language and religious reflection, put a stop to the persecution, and to enmingle with the author's feelings able the diseiples to love one another : and reasonings. Every place, every then view him led into the amphitheatre, circumstance reminds us that we are
and speedily thrown to the wild beasts."
vol. i. p. 94. keeping “ Protestant vigils,” in a land of papal superstition. The
Reminiscences like the above are Apostle Paul felt similarly; for among the most interesting parts of in a city renowned for its arts and Miss Morton's volumes. The ordiluxuries, for all that was gratifying nary tourist passes them by. What to the most refined and elevated cares he for Ignatius or the early martaste, he had but one thought; he tyrs,—we had almost said, for the beheld—not magnificent temples and Apostle Paul or his Master ? the highest triumphs of human skill ; Miss Morton recurs to St. Paul these to him were objects of little at Rome in the following passage, account—but she saw the whole in which she depicts the present city given to idolatry; " and while state of papal superstition at its he mourned over its superstitions, he fountain head. addressed himself to tell its proud
“ I entered Rome with the persuasion inhabitants of the only true God, and that, at least externally, I should perceive Jesus Christ, whom he had sent.
some light from the glare of the French
Revolution : but no: I found midnight Christian travellers need not be darkness—the grossest superstition, or ashamed to experience somewhat of absolute atheism—superstition every the same feelings, under similar cir- where externally exhibited-atheism, in
conversation and in practice. cumstances; for similar, alas! isaspi “ Transubstantiation, penance, purgaritually-minded Protestant traveller tory, prayers for the dead, to the Virgin, in the metropolis of the mother of invocation of saints, pilgrimages, auricular abominations. St. Paul, too, was at confession, indulgences, the worship of Rome, and our author does not for water,—relics—all still the dogmas and
images, of pictures-sprinkling with holy get him, as for example :
ceremonies of the church. “ Beyond this arch of Titus, rises the The Roman-Catholic religion is what immense mass of the Coliseum, the arena it ever was. As at the Reformation,
men are still bound fast in fetters of almanac every year, by authority, and
bis last supper.
3. The body of St. Clement for adora-
Pope on Christmas day.
by his Son, who, being the brightness of nerabile,' exposed for adoration
“ I am sure any of my Christian friends,
strange you can mention such folly.'Ah! but
be justified by these follies, and by their Paul, in writing to the Hebrews, passes
own worthless works.
“ And it must likewise be remembered,
that all these are probably fictitious relics.
Little did I think to see actually brought
before my eye, that of which Claudius of
Turin (one of their own bishops) speaks,
of the cross, If we are allowed to adore
the works of men,-if the cross ought to
for the same reason we ought to adore
them.' The heads of the church ap-
the cradle (likewise fictitious) adored in
high pontifical mass, on Christmas eve, nal redemption for us, and to them that
1826, at Santa Maria Maggiore." vol. i.
not, we are sure, mean to reproach
ence to an aged man on the borders the high altar; and he then led the conof eternity. No appearance of con
gregation in a prayer to the virgin. The
pulpit was very long. To the left of the tempt should mix with Christian piety
preacher was a crucifix, and in bis hand a or holy indignation.
very long towel. He delivered his text, “ Fancy our surprise, when we saw first in Latin, then in Italian." moving on, in the venerable group of car « The sermon was to this effect :dinals, a hat (fac simile to an opera hat) Various have been the indications of the of puce velvet, handsomely trimmed with power and love of God to man. To his silver. I revolved in my inind that it favourite people, the Jews, he sent bis. must be an insignia of the Roman senator, angel to go before them as a cloud and as representative of the people—even the a pillar of tire. To his servant Jacob he beloved flock of this kind shepherd. But appeared as an host. To the ignorant no! this curious object was nothing but a shepherds he sent a vision. Behold, the hat blessed by the pope, to be sent to angel of the Lord came upon them, and the king of Spain. Then came flapping the glory of the Lord shone round about on with a solemn frightful motion, two them. But to the Magi, men of learning, immense fans, formed of large ostrich he sent a star. Yes, to the Magi! far feathers, taken from birds, bred (according from the camp of Israel. Of these Magi to tradition) in early ages, and used by the we havc, from tradition, a particular holy high priests, the Roman emperors--12 account. More honoured than the shepminding one of the superstitious horrors herds, we have their names preserved to of the Obi amidst the poor ignorant us-Gaspar, Melchior, and Beltshazzar. Blacks of Africa ? and beyond this, in the They were kings and priests, deeply. dim distance, was seen, in solemn entry, versed in the mysteries of their religion; the pope. On his head was the triple they had listened to the voice of tradition crown; on his body, the finest decora
-they searched their sacred auguries; tion of the worm; and in his countenance, they understood that God had promised impotence. He bent his poor withered
some great mercy; they waited for this head to the right and left-sat aloft, lift star, and they saw it. Thus you see, my ing his shrivelled hand to indicate his beloved, how God suits his revelations to worthless blessing; and he who sat on
our temperament. They were erudite in: high, entering the temple of God as God, astronomy; they had watched the worlds amidst kneeling adorers, could, after all, of light, and they were prepared to dislook like nothing but a silly old woman. cover any change that might occur. Had He moved on, amidst the profound pros an angel been commissioned to them, as. trations of the people, to his high throne; to the shepherds, possibly they might and the cardinals advanced. The poor have doubted. They might have discreature was helped out, and placed on puted the reality of the vision, and their its throne. The cardinals took their places learning would only have served to into the right and left; the priests sur crease their difficulties. But they had rounded the high altar; and the high pono' seen the star, and they knew its import.'". tifical mass began--the cboristers bursting vol. i. pp. 116, 117. forth in Latin strains.
Incense and perfumes encompassed the pope, and, burn Miss Morton gives us the reing on every side, threw their insulting mainder ; but this may suffice. The smoke towards heaven, whilst a fine sunbeam, crossing the vast area of St. Peter's, thought respecting the adaptation of seemed at that moment the only created the star to the case of the magi is thing that spoke of God—that proclaimed ingenious, though we should not his Majesty—that recalled the infinite
think solid; but then, that a man condescension of Him who was the brightness of his Father's glory.
who could write thus should gravely “ Beneath this glorious ray, the pope, talk of Gaspar, Melchior, and Belsupported by the cardinals, advanced to thazzar! Does any man of educathe altar. The host was elevated. Pope, tion, even in Cologne, seriously beand priests, and people, fel? prostrate before a wafer. Yes, from far and near
lieve in this ridiculous tradition? the rich and poor—the soldier and the Our travellers visited with much slave—the needy pilgrim from the Abruz- sympathy the Protestant burying zian mountains, and the ambassadors of
ground. kingsmall, all adored! Surely there is merriment in hell at such a sight, while has planted trees, and gracefully sculp
“ It is sweetly situated, and affection angels mourn !” vol. i. pp. 104, 105. Our readers shall now have a spe. sympathy was moved to find so many of
tured the tombs of Carrara marble. Our cimen of an Italian sermon.
our countrymen left in a foreign land, far The Jesuit slowly ascended the pul- from the grave of their fathers. We ob-' pit. His countenance was of the finest served the tomb of Miss Bathurst, whose. cast-a St. Francis ; his dress a simple horse plunged into the Tiber, where she priest's vestment, with the Jesuit's cap perished; that of a son of the Bishop of He took it off, and turned gracefully to Lichfield and Coventry, Mr. Ryder, over