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two chapters, one from the Gospel of Arnaud at their head, had placed themSt. John, the other from the Acts of the selves, to face death and maintain their Apostles. The men and women sat se- faith. I contrasted this peaceable proparately; the women in neatly plaited cession—these hymns of praise-with Ay caps, with all their hair strained back, the war-notes that were heard in these and entirely disguised, as human beings, valleys, when they were the arena on by goitres, not one, but many, hanging in which Christian firmness exhibited its bunches. No rags, no filth, as at Naples; conquering power; and I delighted to but all were neat, clean, and quiet, modest join with such a people, in commemoand attentive. They sang several hymns rating that love which, before the mounin the old canon style, always going on tains were brought forth, contemplated with all their might, and great seeming our redemption. devotion. Two children were christened; “ The Vaudois do not allow that they the godfathers advanced to the table, with are a reformed church, but consider that a large square of rich brocade silk pinned their church is formed on the original to their shoulders, and hanging down in model in Apostolic times. They have now front, beneath which was hidden their a good supply of the word of God. An little charge; on the table was a small hospital built by the aid of the English stand for the Bible of the reader. After and Dutch is very useful here; it now an exhortation to the sponsors from the contains sixteen patients.” Vol. ii. pp. pulpit, the minister came down. The 252-255. godmother then took from her pocket a Arriving at a small village called little phial of water, and poured it into Villaro, the service was just commencthe hands of the minister, and he let it ing, it being Whit Monday. Our hearts drop upon the forehead of the child; no burnt within us as we joined in the hymns sign of the Cross was made. He said, of this simple congregation-hymns re• I baptize thee in the name of the Father, plete with sound doctrine and fervid deand the Son, and the Holy Ghost.' The votion. Their confession was expressive chapters read were from the Lausanne of deep humility. As at Torre, two version, with very suitable reflections. chapters were read with excellent reflecThere was then a confession, very similar, tions, and then followed the Apostle's or the same with that I heard at Lau- Creed, the Ten Commandments, and the sanne; then followed a hymn in very old Lord's Prayer. The pastor's text was, French, and then the sermon; then ano
Ye believe in God,-believe also in me.' ther hymn and exhortation to the com- He commenced by texts shewing the municants: the little reading-stand was scriptural authority, for believing in then removed, and two high ancient silver Christ; shewed that he was the Prophet, cups were put on the table, with a large Priest, and King of his people, and that he quantity of bread in a napkin. The mi- had himself declared, I and my Father nister then approached the table, (which ne;' dwelt on the inestimable bewas where our reading-desk is generally nefit of such an High Priest and King, and placed, under the pulpit,) and said, • The the miserable condition of those who did cup of blessing which we bless, is it not the not believe in, love, and obey Him, even communion of the blood of Christ ?—the Him who would hereafter be the unerring bread which we break, is it not the com- Judge. The people listened with deep munion of the body of Christ ?' The attention, and seemed, by their quiet, somen then approached in pairs, put a small lemn air, to answer, · Lord, thou knowest piece of money into a plate on the table, all things, thou knowest that we love and made a bend to the minister. He thee.' They appeared, with unfeigned then presented them with the bread and devotion, to supplicate by their hymns, wine, applying to each some verse of the assistance of the Spirit, the protecScripture, 'noť doctrinal, but what is tion of the Father, and the love of the usually termed practical, (a distinction Son. A layman, in a light blue jacket, which I think shews but little real insight read the chapters. I think there was no into the nature of the Gospel.) They extemporary prayer; the robes were very then bent again, two more succeeded, and similar to those of our own clergy. After thus, till all approached, partook and service we walked up this sweet valley passed on, to the number of five hundred, with the congregation; they appear to the men first, and then the women. Mr. feel the privilege they possess in the B. said there were but few comparatively word of God. One little old woman to-day, on account of the number of seemed quite overjoyed to see the Enwomen who at this season attend their glish and Protestants; and insisted on silk-worms night and day, and thus earn our mounting to her cottage. It was no a livelihood. As they passed in slow and small labour to reach it up a steep mounsolemn files up to the altar, and the chan- tain-path ; and as we went she stopped, tor led the voices of those who were not first at one cottage, then at another, engaged in communion, the tones,—the screaming out, “The English Protestpace,--the air,—brought at once to my ants:' they all appeared overflowing with mind the various passes in which the gratitude. At length we reached her brave ancestors of these men, with Henri humble dwelling, she and her friend and
neighbours following. A large pan of praise. In winter he has a parish school milk was produced ; another of extremely of seventy children, and educates young sweet chesnuts, like sugar, with some men for the ministry. A Vaudois begged miserably black bread. In a little loft, of me to go in, and see Mrs. M-the full of dried branches and leaves, the pastor's wife. • She will,' added this daughter-in-law had laid her babe, lite- simple creature, be so glad to see you.' rally in a pig-trough, but a perfectly clean The whole manner in which they spoke one. “My grandfather was always talk- gave me the impression that she was such ing to us,' said the old woman,' of the an one as the dear early friend of those persecutions of our forefathers. He fre- days, when,‘like the lark, we gaily hailed quently remarked, “ Mind, my dears, the morn.' We were not bold enough to never give up your ancient faith, if they make this visit; I will, therefore, trancut you into pieces smaller than my nail; scribe the description of the dear secluded the suffering will not last long : soon you pair from the account of Mr. G-, that will appear in white robes, at the supper account which first excited the ardent deof the Lamb.'” She added, “ I have two sire to see these noble valleys, and the sons: they are gone as shepherds into accomplishment of which afforded us one France.-- The Lord bless you, and keep of the most pleasing incidents of our you, madam,' said she-It is delightful to journey. As soon as we left the church,' me to think of that world which is to come says Mr. G-Mr. M_ accosted after death-may you get safely to it!' us frankly, and we were introduced to his In that moment I felt we were chil- wife and young family. There was no dren of one family, and as if I had re- fire when we first went in, but he saw we turned to my home ;—and as she said, were shivering with cold, and a blazing . You know we poor Vaudois were ob- hearth was soon ready to comfort us, and liged to hide in the caves and passes of small pans or vessels of charcoal were these mountains rather than deny Jesus, brought for us to put our feet on.
The I felt I had but too often acted the coward. apartment in which Mr. M- welcomIn the midst of the poverty that sur- ed us was spacious; it had the unusual rounded them, there was really much luxury of a sofa, and stuffed chairs; and good breeding. As we begged her to cut the wall, or rather wainscoting, of walnutus a slice of bread, she said, “ Il n'est pas wood, was hung with drawings from Mr. bien que je vous le coupe,' expressing she M- 's own pencil. He insisted upon wished us to take any quantity we liked. our taking dinner, and his kind-hearted When we rose to pursue our way, she wife, an engaging young woman, of about passed her hymn-book into the hands of twenty-six years of age, busied herself to her sweet smiling daughter, who had just prepare a repast, whilst he himself anreturned from her little garden with a swered all our questions, interrogated us large bouquet of flowers for us, and said in return, and appeared as contented and to her, ‘ Il faut que je les accompagne happy as if he had undisturbed possesand then, kissing our hands affectionately, sion of the whole valley.
The present trudged on before us, through and down a pastor of Bobbio has
a few acres little vineyard to the cabriolet, whilst a he can call his own. He has his whole troop followed with flowers and pastures for his cows and goats, a moblessings. I have never seen so much derate extent of arable land, and a pleasure expressed, and apparently felt, stream of water irrigates them.
The by strangers—we seemed to be truly bread was home-baked, the butter and sisters in Christ.
cheese home-made, and the wine homeWe now proceeded towards Bobbio, pressed ; nor did he forget to tell us that the last of the Protestant villages that his wife had prepared the sausages, the can be reached with wheels. Situated in fritters, and the baked pears. Napkins the bosom of hills, overhung by vast were placed by the side of our plates, the mountain peaks, and surrounded by rush. knives and forks were of the coarsest ing torrents, the campanile stands insu- workmanship, the spoons of iron, and the lated on a rock. The church is a neat plates and dishes of very ordinary brown little building; the churchyard the sim
Vol. ii. pp. 257—261. plest I ever saw. I longed to peep upon the resting-place of these children of the
We now turn to Mr. C. I. Lamartyrs. Unhewn stones from the brook trobe, whose title of “ The Alpenare placed at the head of the graves, “and, stock,” the iron-spiked pole used in if they can afford it,' said a nice neat
the Alps by chamois-hunters and little woman, 'the name is cut.' Thus, in this humble manner, repose the ashes pedestrian travellers, is no unfitting of those whose names are written in the symbol of his pursuits. This indeBook of Life. We were delighted with fatigable tourist, avoiding as much as the people. I have often heard of Chris- possible hackneyed scenes and beaten tian simplicity and love, but such kind roads, and the luxury of guides and looks and words I have not met with before. To the pastor of Bobbio the pa- inns, traversed Switzerland, solitarily rishioners volunteered every species of and on foot, in various directions,
often with great fatigue and immi- vidual as heretofore; and that the temp, nent hazard, but in the end sur
tation held out to me by the continual
sight of the distant Alps and their glamounting every difficulty, and open- ciers, would probably, under the insinuating to his reader not a few remark- ing influence of longer days and brighter able scenes where few tourists are suns, prove seriously detrimental to my likely to follow him. The chief in- sober and sedentary employments.
“ However, I must be allowed to say a terest of his volume arises from his good word for myself, by stating, that, in descriptions of Alpine scenery, and spite of much temptation from within and his toils and hair-breadth escapes in without, I struggled hard, and with partial search of it. His descriptions are
success, against these symptoms, before I very lively, and his sketches very before I relaxed aught material of my dis
fairly gave in. It was the middle of April graphic, intermixed oftentimes with cipline, and the middle of June before I a few touches of playfulness or of fairly assumed the staff and wallet." sentiment, which add to their em
" I knew, from experience, thật my
back was, thanks to God, strong enough bellishment. The much-respected to bear my own burden ; my health suffiname of Latrobe would well have ciently robust to support ordinary fatigue ; comported with a larger infusion of and my spirits sufficiently unbroken and religious remark than we find in the flexible to keep me up where the body,
unaided, might be inclined to sink from volume ; and it ought to have been extraordinary exertion or difficulty. a sufficient guarantee against here “ Though neither misanthropic nor of and there a trifling allusion to a a particularly gloomy turn, I had no obscriptural phrase, which we are sure jection to solitude ; and trusted to find,
in the scenes around me, and in my own the author, however prone to a jest, thoughts and resources, sufficient amusewould not, upon reflection, attempt ment to prevent my suffering from ennui. to justify. Could he feel surprised, “ If it were not, in the present age, set if any person of serious feeling, who down to a man's discredit to acknowledge
that he was not rich enough to squander, I happened to open the volume upon might, perhaps, add this reason also, why such a remark as that “ poor Coquet I did not feel at liberty to indulge in lux(the dog) had been gathered to her uries which I could possibly do without : fathers,” or that
Sion is prover
but as the minds of men happen to be so
constructed at present, I will even keep bially the paradise and city of refuge my own counsel, and set out as Milor of vermin,” had thrown it away in Anglais, or what you please.” pp. 5–7. disgust; judging, by even one such We shall not trouble our readers casual expression, that the author with an outline of the author's vacould not have a due reverence for rious journeys, his crossings and the word of God ? Our duty obliges re-crossings of this land of wonus to notice this occasional blot, with ders; but merely note the localities as here and there an expression some. they happen to occur in our extracts. what too flippant; and the more so Speaking of the Lake of Morat, as the name of Latrobe, and the ge- he mentions the following phenoneral character of the work, render menon in 1825. Such facts are such blemishes the more conspicuous worth preserving, not only as inciand unaccountable.
dents in natural history, but as ilOur task will now be to select lustrating the source to which many such passages for extract as will of the popular superstitions of ignobest give an idea of the manner of rant nations and neighbourhoods writing of the author, and of the may be traced—namely, to unusual scenes through which he travelled. physical phenomena, which imagiHe introduces himself setting out nation has embellished by discovering as follows on his Alpine excursions, for them a fabulous rationale; thus after a winter and spring passed at inventing omens and portents, to Neufchatel in quiet and study. terrify one generation and to puzzle
" Many a sly glance did I throw into another. Heathen mythology doubtthe corner where my trusty staff had been
less owes much to this fertile source, consigned to ignoble repose for so many from the image of Jupiter which fell months. In short, I began grievously to suspect that I was much the same indi. from heaven, to the personifications
of the wild Scandinavian or the from the specimens sent, that it was an timid Hindoo. Philosophy, where it animal substance, which, if not the oscil
latorin subfusca, was nearly allied to it. can, chases the terror by explaining “ Soon after the beginning of May it the phenomena: Christianity provides disappeared entirely. It is not known against it, by tracing up all things, that this phenomenon has appeared before
on the lake of Morat within the memory even the most inexplicable, to the
Tradition states the same to hand of a merciful God, a reconciled have happened the year preceding the Father, who “makes all things to great battle.” pp. 12, 13. work together for good to them that
Whoever visits Switzerland-W love him, and are the called according might say the same of British sceto his purpose” of grace and mercy nery, or any scenery, but the remark in Christ Jesus.
applies particularly to mountainous I remember the report reaching Neu- tracts ought to possess such a chatei, through the medium of the market triple provision of time, and patience, people passing from one lake to the other and money, as shall be proof against (some time during the winter), that the clouds and storms ; for if either of waters of the lake of Morat bad suddenly become the colour of blood ; though Í these prematurely fail, the traveller could meet with no one whose testimony may return home little the wiser for was sufficiently clear and unequivocal to
his visit, except in such wisdom as establish the fact. This, joined to my he can pick up during his weathernot having the leisure then to come and see for myself, caused the matter to slip bound spells at inns and hovels. Mr. my memory entirely, till I found myself Latrobe often sallied from undercover in the neighbourhood. Here the circum- when few travellers followed his exstance was fully confirmed to me in a manner not to be questioned : and having ample : yet even he could not dissisince met with a paper, written by Mons. pate mists, or drive away clouds, or de Candolle, of Geneva, on the subject, I forbid drifting snows, and thus he shall take what is there stated as my best lost some admirable prospects. For guide in mentioning the facts as they instance : occurred.
“ It appears that this singular pheno- “ I arrived at Interlachen. The magmenon began to excite the attention of nificent scenery which renders this village the inhabitants of Morat as early as No. so deservedly celebrated, even among the vember last year, and that it continued Alps, was, as I had in a great measure more or less observable during the whole anticipated, divested of its brightest feaof the winter.
The extremity of the long valley “ Mr. Treschel, a gentleman resident leading to Lauterbrunnen and Grindelat Morat, to whom M. de Candolle ap- wald, shewed nothing of the glaciers. plied, on hearing the report, for infor. They were enveloped in one high-piled, mation, and specimens of the colouring motionless, mass of heavy clouds, and the matter, stated, That during the early hours whole surface of the heavens began before of the day no extraordinary appearance noon to betoken speedy and heavy rain. was observable in the lake; but that, a “ This was no empty show. The evenlittle later, long parallel lines of reddish ing found me seated, in but indifferent matter were seen to extend along the case, before a scanty tire in the travellers' surface of the water, at some distance room in the inn at Lauterbrunnen, chilled from the banks. This, being blown by to the bone; chafing my hands by applithe wind towards the more sheltered parts cation to the flickering blaze, and my of the shore, collected itself about the temper by various unprofitable reflections reeds and rushes, covering the surface of upon my bad fortune and disappointment. the lake with a light foam ; forming, as it However, as I grew warm I got better were, different strata of various colours, tempered, and found I could hope for tofrom greenish black, grey, yellow, and morrow while I despaired for to-day. brown, to the most delicious red. He “ The morrow came, and with it every adds, that this matter exhaled a pestiferous sign of the continuance of the provokodour during the day, but disappeared at ingly bad weather. Far from the Jungthe approach of night. It was further frau being visible, it was with difficulty observed, that during tempestuous weather that the eye could trace the outline of the it vanished altogether. Many small fishes Wengern-Alp at its foot; and the nuwere seen to become intoxicated while
merous cascades tumbling down the sides swimming amongst it, and, after a few of the latter seemed really to fall from the convulsive leaps, to lie motionless on the clouds. surface.
“ It was, to be sure, a bad speculation “ The naturalists of Geneva decided to go out with no other prospect than
that of being rained upon : yet to remain clouds. This lower part consists of lines in the inn, adding my quota to the yawns, of the most fearful precipices, in steps of ennui, and discontent of some thirty or some hundred feet each, with patches of forty English, Russian, and German tra- green herbage dispersed over their ledges, vellers, all, like myself, sighing for fair and grooved here and there by deep and weather, did not appear to me to offer a narrow perpendicular furrows. much better alternative. So, after a lei. “ The two principal of these, immesurely breakfast, I set off to see the cas- diately opposite to the Wengern-Alp, cades, the only objects in the valley which serve as channels for the greater part of were likely to gain any thing from the the avalanches originating on the slopes of rain. The principal of these, the Staub- the glaciers on this side of the mountain ; bach, descends into the valley close be
å great portion of these declivities having hind the village. The height of the fall apparently a bearing either to the one or is computed at 800 feet.” pp. 36, 37. the other Mr. Latrobe's solitary alpenstock
“ I came too late for the lauine, which
had roused me; but in the course of the style of travelling enabled him to make the most of the unfavourable with respect to this awful phenomenon.
evening had my utmost curiosity satisfied weather ; not only by visiting the By far the greater number were seen aforesaid cascades, and sundry bois pouring down from one precipice to anoterous torrents and dangerous gla- ther
, like a huge cataract ; accompanied ciers, where, if a tottering avalanche by a loud explosion, or a series of explo
All the minor ones have this apthought proper to descend, he was
But it was my fortune to be directly in its path; but by setting witness of another kind, much more awful off forthwith to pass the night as he and imposing in appearance, and, we had might in some hovel on the brow of
reason to think, much more disastrous in
its effects. the Wengern Alp, at the edge of the
“ The vacher had been absent from the gloomy ravine which separates it châlet about two hours, his cows being in from the Jungfrau, so as to be on a shed upon another part of the Alp, and the higher mountains at day-break, had just returned, it being then about
seven o'clock P. M. when, if at any time, during even
“ In the course of the evening he had rainy and thick weather, the summits directed my attention to a small flock of are free from clouds. This im- sheep, on one of the above-mentioned promptu excursion was the more green patches of pasture, situated on the readily fixed upon, as the violent half-way up the lower part of the moun
ledge overhanging the precipices, about exercise, he thought, might pre- tain. To an observation of wonder at vent the ill effects of a submersion their exposure in a situation apparently so which had befallen him among the dangerous, he had replied, that they were cascades, in leaping over an icy brunnen, who ran the risk, for the sake of torrent. On the Wengern Alp he the extraordinary luxuriance and richness found a cow-herd in a miserable of the grass on that slope ; and added, log-hut, with whom he took up his that, moreover, being situated under a dwelling for the night ; amply satis- high rock, with a deep ravine on either
side, the danger was not so great, when fied and in good humour with a
once fairly lodged there. draught of warm milk and a fire to Half an hour after his return, just as dry himself
, and little envying the the shades of approaching evening began English, German, and Russian tour
to render the dull light from the châlet
door barely sufficient for me to guide my ists in their listless quarters below; pen upon my paper, I was roused from especially as he had an opportunity my seat by a distant rumble, and hastened of witnessing the following sublime
to the door-way, The sound continued
to increase, but for some short time nophenomena.
thing was to be seen in motion. At length “I had not been seated ten minutes, we saw the avalanche emerge, like a rollbefore a loud explosion from the moun- ing cloud of dense smoke, from the fogs tain opposite gave warning ofan avalanche. resting upon the mountain. It rushed I hastened to the door-way, and saw that forwar.I like a whirlwind down the last the lower part of the Jungfrau, which stage of the glaciers, and approached the rose directly before me, had become totally edge of the precipices. My breathless free from vapour, though the numerous attention was naturally directed towards summits of the mountain, and of course the advancing mass; when it was diverted the greater part of the glaciers, were still by hearing the vacher cry out, from the covered with an impenetrable mass of little elevation to which he had run, The