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against a stile."

HREE days after leaving Madras, about dusk, we came to a low bank running into the sea-such a place as that to which the wounded Arthur was borne in his rent armour.

"A dark strait of barren land:

On one side lay the ocean, and on one

Lay a great water, and the moon was full."

We anchored for the night off the Sunderbundsthose dreary swamps where malaria and tigers reign supreme. Lord Valentia, who visited India at the beginning of the century, wrote: "To these Sunderbunds the Hindoos resort at this season in immense numbers to perform their ablutions in the Ganges, and many to sacrifice themselves to the alligators, which they effect by walking into the river and waiting till the ferocious animals approach and draw them under; others perish by the tigers every season, yet the powerful influence of superstition still draws them to the spot."

The next morning we resumed our voyage. The low shore stretched before us, steaming and glistening in the rising sun; and the vast inland sea, covered with native boats whose broad brown sails are filled with light and breeze as they swiftly skim over the waters. The river narrows as we go steaming up it, guided and directed along our tortuous and difficult course by the experienced hand and eye of one of the famous Hooghly pilots. It was in the year 1675 that the Worshipful East India Company wrote to Fort St. George, at Madras, as follows:

"We enorder you to write effectually to your Chief and Councell at the Bay to provide careful young men of about twenty years of age, out of any of the ships in the Companies' Service with the concent of the comandants, to be trained up as pylotts, but not to be imployed as writers, or on any other marcantile affairs, that thereby the Companies' shipping may with safety be carryed up the River Ganges, and send new yearly what you doe therein, and an account of their proficiency and their journalls.” In considerable respect was the Hooghly pilot held, for it was ordered that he "should rank next to our covenanted servants.”

Much interest is excited on board as we approach the famous shoal, "James and Mary," so dreaded by mariners in days of old. A good deal of literary and philological ingenuity has been spent in accounting for the name, and many subtle derivations have lost their value by Sir George Birdwood discovering a few years ago, among the ancient records of the India Office, the following entry:

"The Royal James and Mary (James II. and Mary of Modena) arrived in Balasore Roads, from the West Coast, in August, with a cargo of red wood, candy, and pepper, which she has taken up in Madras. Coming up the river Hooghly on the 24th September, 1692, she fell on a bank on this side Tumbolie Point, and was unfortunately lost, being immediately overset and broke her back, with the loss of four or five men's lives." "This shipwreck "—writes Sir George Birdwood— "of The Royal James and Mary is the origin of the name which, I believe, is still a puzzle to some in Calcutta, of the James and Mary Sands."

After leaving the "James and Mary" we steer close to the shore, and pass the fortifications at Fulta. A little more than a century ago, when the French fleet was hourly expected at Calcutta, orders were given that at Fulta the chain should every evening be laid across the river a delightfully primitive state of existence. In the present day large sums of money have to be spent on batteries, heavy guns, and torpedoes, and when the fortifications have been completed, military experts of a new school arise and prove that the whole plan of defence is worthless. It was on December 15th, 1756, that Clive arrived at Fulta from Madras, and found Drake and his fellow-fugitives in the ships on board which they had taken refuge when Suraja Dowla besieged and took Fort William.

After leaving Fulta the river again broadens till we come to a broad expanse of water, with some large vessels anchored by the river's bank. This is Budge-Budge, or Buz-Buzia, as it was called in the old days. Those who have studied Orme's great History-the favourite work of that good and brave soldier Colonel Newcombe -will remember how the English force was surprised at night at Buz-Buzia, and how it was saved from destruction by the gallantry and presence of mind of Clive.

As we advance up the river we find huge mills erected on the river bankswitnesses of the growing prosperity of Calcutta, and we pass some of the stately mansions at Garden Reach, which used, in bygone times, before they were shorn of their splendour, to surprise and delight the eye of the stranger, as he approached the "City of Palaces." When these country seats were first erected it is difficult to decide. Mrs. Fay, whose letters throw much light on Calcutta in the olden days, writes (May 22nd, 1780) as follows: "As you enter Garden Reach, which extends about nine miles below the town, the most interesting views that can possibly be imagined greet the eye. The banks of the river are, as one may say, absolutely studded with elegant mansions, called here, as at Madras, 'garden-houses.' These houses are surrounded by groves and lawns, which descend to the water's edge, and present a constant succession of whatever can delight the eye, or bespeak wealth and elegance in the owners. The noble appearance of the river also, which is much wider than the Thames at London Bridge, together with the amazing

variety of vessels continually passing along its surface, add to the beauty of the scene."

When the ex-Nawab of Oude was allowed to settle at Garden Reach, the wealthy owners deserted their noble mansions, and Garden Reach ceased to be a fashionable suburb. The fantastic palace, which that monarch erected on the river side, is fast being pulled down by the syndicate which purchased it, and the land is to be let as sites for mills. Opposite the King of Oude's palace is that lovely park of lawns and walks and noble trees-the Botanical Gardens of Calcutta. A century ago they were founded by Colonel Alexander Kyd, for "the collection of plants indigenous to the country, and for the introduction and acclimatisation of plants from foreign parts." The object of the founder has been fully realised. Trees of the rarest kinds, from Nepaul and the Cape, Brazil and Penang, Java and Sumatra, are gathered together in that spot. The mahogany towers there, and the Cuba palms, form an avenue like the aisle of some lofty cathedral. Noble mango trees and tamarinds are dotted about the grassy lawns; and there are stately casuarinas around whose stems are trained climbing palms. There are plantains of vast size and beauty from the Malay Archipelago, and giant creepers from South America. The crimson hibiscus and scarlet passion-flower dazzle the eye, and the odour of the champak and innumerable jessamines float upon the breeze. As Bishop Heber remarked, "The Botanic Gardens would perfectly answer to Milton's idea of Paradise, if they were on a hill instead of a dead flat.”

North of the gardens lies Bishop's College, and its smooth green lawns and Gothic buildings recall to mind bright days spent on the banks of the Cam. The college was founded by Bishop Middleton, the first of the Metropolitans of Indiaprelates who, by their learning, their devotion and their zeal, would do credit to any Church in the world. The object of this institution was "the education of Christian youth in sacred knowledge, in sound learning, and in the principal language used in the country; in habits of piety and devotion to their calling, that they may be qualified to preach among the heathen."

The College owes its Gothic style to William Jones, one of the most remarkable men who ever came to India, and who, by the discovery of coal in Burdwan, has done more than any other man to develop the material wealth of the land. In 1800 he landed at Calcutta, and for ten years followed the trade of a working mechanic. He then became the proprietor of a canvas manufactory at Howrah, and was the founder of that prosperous suburb. In 1811, when an expedition was about to start for Java, the Government found themseives in want of cartridges, and Jones exercised his mechanical skill in establishing a small paper manufactory, from which he supplied the Government with all the paper they required. When the expedition was over the factory was closed. Jones was not only a mechanic, but a successful builder. He contracted for the building of the College, because he had a great desire to erect the first Gothic edifice in India. But he was not destined to see the fulfilment of his great ambition. While superintending the erection of the building he caught a fever, which proved fatal in three days.

As we steam past Bishop's College a forest of masts bursts upon our view, and before us, enveloped in a grey mist, lies the port of Calcutta. After passing the entrance of the new docks, the eye is arrested by the vast outlines of the parapets of Fort William, the picturesque gateways and the long row of white barracks half visible above the green fortifications. In 1757, shortly after the battle of Plassey, the fort was commenced by Clive. Captain John Brohier was brought over from Madras to design it. At a consultation held on July 25th, 1757-two months before Plassey was fought a letter was read from Captain Brohier, in which he states: