to those of the other. The road is broad, well "macadamized," and on each side is a row of fine poplars, affording the most noble avenue we ever saw. On my own part, I dislike poplars generally -an English landscape is often marred by them, and when formally planted, in short rows, they are unbearable: sometimes they look well, when mingled in clumps of other foliage, or when singly springing up in the foreground of a picture; but the poplars between Durlach and Carlsruhe are of a superior order to any I have seen in Britain; their trunks are much larger, and their height immense: altogether, I have no hesitation in preferring it to the Long Walk at Windsor, or to any thing at Versailles. I pray you, go and judge for yourself.

Carlsruhe, the capital of the Grand Duchy of Baden, and the residence of the Court, is built on an uniform plan. The palace forms the centre, from which all the principal streets diverge; and in whatever direction you stroll, this extensive edifice continually attracts the eye. The principal street is a mile long, and very broad; but, from the lowness of the houses, does not make that figure you would expect. The progress of improvement in this city has been rapid. It is situated on the forest of Hartwald, and a hunting-seat was erected here in 1715. In process of a few years a re

A MOONLIGHT JOURNEY.

169

spectable village gathered around it, and now there are thirty-three streets, 1165 houses, and 17,000 inhabitants.

The protestant and catholic religions are both held. There are in the place a gallery of pictures, a museum and society of arts, a botanical garden, and a theatre. Balls and concerts are frequent, and the play-nights are Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Literature appears to flourish here, as there are four libraries, four printing-offices for letter-press, and three for lithography, besides a copper-plate printing-office.

pa

After strolling through the city, and looking at the swans on the fountain reservoir before the lace, we sat down to dinner at the "Englishen Hof;" and as the sun was sinking behind the Vosges re-entered our voiture..

Our drive to Radstadt was by moon light, and a brighter moon and a lovelier night were never witnessed. The former, sailing in company with

"bright-eyed Venus,"

over the mountains to our left, afforded us a scene inexpressibly fine. And here allow me to mention, that a common idea, that tourists should never travel by night, on account of losing some scenery, is wrong. If we had adhered to that rule, we should have lost some of the finest things and most inte

170 PLEASURES OF NOCTURNAL TRAVELLING.

resting impressions we received. I recommend all, when on such excursions as this, to occasionally travel in the twilight, at midnight, at the turn of morning, and, above all, when dawn comes on, with its faint streaks of light, to usher on the scene the glorious sun. At night, if the moon be not touching each tree and peak with drops of silver, it is a chance that the stars-pale Vega, the Pleiades, red-faced Arcturus, and, what is more glorious than any I have named, the cluster of the Hyades,--it is a chance, I say, that some of these be twinkling over head, and keeping your astronomical speculations on the move: but if it be dark, so that you cannot see your nose before you, or that the postillion puts his pinch of snuff in his mouth instead of his nose, there is yet interest in the scene. You think of sprites and weirds

that dance upon the wold,"

and it may hap that you get an overthrow, and that while you tumble over the rugged precipice you strike fire from your pate against the flinty spars. Then you indulge yourself by luxuriating in the novelty of the adventure, and in hazarding interesting conjectures on the affinity of your nasal sparks to the principles of electricity or animal magnetism.

And now, gentle companions, this is the well

ARRIVAL AT RADSTADT.

171

built town of Radstadt; for although it be half-past eleven, the moon makes every object as distinct as day.

We were three parts of an hour endeavouring to procure beds at the various hotels; all were filled; the large, the middling, and but middling, and at length we gave the thing up in despair. Our postillion placed some bread before his horses, sat himself coolly down to supper, and we were nearly reduced to the extremity of starting off again in an hour, and to travel all the night, when, as a last resource, we sallied out again to the open and silent streets, and at last procured the promise of beds at the Golden Crown: and a golden crowning it was to our day's adventures. In one hour after we were wrapt in all the mysteries of quilts, blankets, and bolsters.

CHAPTER VII.

THE BLACK FOREST-KENZINGEN—

FRIBOURG.

SEPT. 1.-You will remember it was near one before we retired to rest this morning, and we were again in our voiture at five. It is curious how little sleep is absolutely necessary. Those four hours' sleep refreshed us more than ten hours would have done; and I have often observed, that on the day following those nights during which we procure the least sleep, we are the most hilarious and spirited.

We enjoyed a fine sunrise over the heights of the Black Forest, into which celebrated district we were now entering. The mountains composing the territory of the Black Forest, (Markwald,)