they have to contend with, they appear in every respect more civilized and more intellectual than their neighbours of the Scottish mainland, notwithstanding the vaunted education of the lower class, both Highlander and Lowlander.

The Orkneys, in centuries past, were the general rendezvous of the piratical fleets which constantly devastated the coasts alike of England and of France; and it was not till the year 1468 that the islands were pledged to Scotland--a pledge, we know not how to congratulate them, which has never been redeemed.

Kirkwall, situated in a bay on the north coast of Ponoma, is the capital of the islands; and the visitor of this remote district will be gratified by a sight of the cathedral of St. Magnus, which is one of the most remarkable specimens of middle-age architecture in Scotland, having been built by Olave, king of Denmark. In its immediate vicinity, the ruins of the Bishop's palace still offer an object of interest; as also the palace of the Earl of Stewart, the last feudal Earl of Orkney, who was executed for high treason.

The town is situated close to the sea, its narrow and ill-paved streets having all the appearance of a Norman town.

The Isles of Orkney can boast of little game, although, on some parts of the higher lands, many grouse are to be met with, as also abundant hares; as a shooting quarter, however, it is out of the question; for even were the difficulties which offer themselves for approaching the island a matter of less importance when pleasure is the object, there is decidedly not sufficient game to offer a very tempting bait for so long a journey to the Southron. To him, however, who lands at Kirkwall, with the intention of rambling through the Orkneys in search of beauties

which he has found in fairer lands, and who, at the same time being a sportsman, has prepared himself for all chances, by numbering among his baggage for the line of march, a double-barrel and a fishingrod, may chance to pass a morning on the Wideford hill of Pomona agreeably, and cast many a successful fly in the rippling waters and lakes with which the isles abound. Sea-fowl also visit the Orkneys in thousands; and a protecting Providence, caring for and watching over all, appears to have selected the rocky coast of these wild islands as an abundant abiding place for fish, whereby numerous families. are provided with a means of existence otherwise unattainable. Cod-fish, herrings and lobsters abound along the coast; indeed the London market, we are credibly informed, is chiefly supplied with lobsters from the Orkneys. The neighbouring shores are also constantly visited by seals; from which, indeed, it has been conjectured that the islands derive their name-orc, in the language of the Northman, signifying seal.

Let those who love to dwell on the dark waters of the deep blue sea, and who desire a shot at a seaeagle, there called bonxie, or Scua-gull, a very rare bird, which rears its young on the high hills of Foula and other places, come with us to Shetland.

We scarcely ever recollect a more glorious summer's night than that, when, standing on the deck of the large steamer we have already named, we beheld the rays of a bright moon cast her glittering beams on the swelling waters, which rolled towards the shores of Tair Isle; and subsequently having breasted the unexampled tide, which literally roars, even in its calmness, round the rocky base of Shumburgh Head, we cast our anchor in the Bay of Lerwick soon after midnight—if night there be at all in

that northern latitude, for there the long days of midsummer rarely say farewell, or are clothed in darkness. At a reasonable hour in the morning subsequent to our arrival, we landed on the little pier of Shetland's capital; but had scarcely set foot on this northern isle, ere the hand of the stranger was held forth in kindness and hospitality to bid us welcome, and offer us those courtesies so doubly gratifying when unexpected and unsought.

Nevertheless, on such occasions, when the object is to see everything worthy and within the range of possibility of being seen, without entailing unnecessary trouble on others, we hold that it is far better to secure an independent resting place, under the roof of public accommodation, where you may command the waiter at discretion, if such be your pleasure and he be well paid, rather than lay your head to rest on the pillow of any man, however much you may regard him, or appreciate his generous offers of hospitality. With feelings such as these, therefore, although we gratefully accepted the invitation which had been courteously tendered us as far as that most essential pastime dinner was concerned, we declined the rest, and forthwith walked through the only street, curious and narrow as it is, which with some hundred additional straggling houses, form the city--for city we conclude it must be, of Lerwick. We arrived at the sign of the Udaler, the principal, in fact only abiding place for tired and hungry travellers, and solicited accomodation, which, such as it proved, was immediately placed at our disposal; the only public sitting room, in fact, the only good apartment which the establishment could boast of, (that we had obtained being literally a closet) being already occupied by a young Englishman.