CHAP.

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the Fleet.

Nelson's Island.

Camachuia-Theban Stone-Paintings commemorated upon Gems-Notice of Picture by Zeuxis-Substances used for the Signets of Cyprus—their most antient form.

UPON the first of May, we returned to the Return to fleet for our baggage, and took this opportunity to examine the Isle of Behier', or, as it is now called, "Nelson's Island." We procured here about half a bushel of the bulbs of a very superb species of lily, with which the whole island was covered. Heaps of human bodies, cast up after "the Action of the Nile," as it has been rather improperly termed, and not having been exposed to the devouring jackals, still presented upon the shore a revolting spectacle. Captain Clarke, who was with us, employed the crew of his cutter in burying their remains; and we were proud to aid their Antiqui- pious labour. Small as this island is, it yet

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contains some very remarkable antiquities. We observed the paved floors of buildings, with part of their superstructure, and some arched chambers lined with stucco, stretching out from the island towards Aboukir. Other

(1) Or, Aboukir.

(2) Even the Rosetta branch of the Nile is at such a considerable distance to the East of Aboukir Bay, which was the real scene of action, that to call it the Action of the Nile is not less absurd than to name the Battle of Trafalgar the Action of Tangiers.

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remains might also be obse d under water; CHAP. a convincing proof of the changes to which the coast has been liable, from the encroachment

of the sea. A very singular subterraneous passage, now open at its northern extremity, leads to some apartments in the opposite direction, which have an aperture above them, on a level with the surface of the higher part of the island: no conjecture can be formed whither this passage extended elsewhere, as it has been opened by the sea towards the bay. Pliny mentions this island; but the history of these ruins seems to be lost in hopeless obscurity: some have suspected that they might have belonged to the antient city of Canopus, now lying buried beneath the waves,—a memorable instance of the fate attending cities distinguished only by their vices: but all this is mere conjecture, and some reasons will be given in the sequel to shew that Canopus may have had a different situation'. We found here a few other curious plants, whose names will appear in the Appendix to the Third Section; and we observed in great abundance, among the sand, those small and beautiful shells worn by Maltese sailors, in their ears.

CHAP.

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We were detained with the fleet until the ninth. Upon the morning of that day, the Braakel's cutter being ordered to Rosetta, we again set out for this place; sailing in company with the Dorothea frigate, until she came off the mouth of the Nile. The surf on the bar being low, we were able to pass over it, and therefore entered the Rosetta branch of the river. Of the seven mouths this river formerly possessed, only two now remain; those of Damiata and Rosetta. Soon after passing the bar in the embouchure of the Rosetta branch, an island divides the stream into two broad channels; and just beyond the point where these again unite, upon the western side of the river, Rosetta is situate; appearing equally beautiful, whether approached by land or by water. This small island is covered with clover and date-trees it was then appropriated to the use of the French and Maltese prisoners, taken at Damiata, and other places upon the Nile towards Caïro.

Rosetta. We remained at Rosetta until the twentieth, visiting, occasionally, the Delta, and the environs of the town. The description already given by Sonnini of this place is ample and accurate. Chameleons are very common in the gardens, and upon the island in the midst of

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the river, where we procured two that lived CHAP. with us until we finally left Egypt. They were large of their kind, and of a most vivid green colour when first taken. Afterwards, their common appearance was that of the brown lizard; and we found as they became unhealthy that their power of changing colour diminished. Indeed, this effect is seldom rapid or instantaneous; it seems always the result of sudden apprehension or surprise, when the poor defenceless animal, having no means of resistance, gradually assumes the colour of some substance over which it passes; being thus provided by Nature with the means of concealment. Frogs and toads appear to possess this property in a certain degree, although it may have escaped the observation of naturalists: after these reptiles have remained a certain time upon a recently-turned border of earth, their colour so much resembles that of the soil, that they are not easily perceived; and sometimes among grass, when alarmed by the sudden approach of any other animal, they assume a greenish hue. The inclosures for gardens near Rosetta are formed by hedges made of palm-branches, or of the Cactus Ficus Indica, Prickly Pear: we often collected the fine yellow blossoms of this plant: they are faithfully represented in the account published of Lord Macartney's Voyage

CHAP. to China. Apricots of a small size, the produce

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of standard-trees, together with the fruit of the banana', sugar-canes, pumpkins, lettuces, and cucumbers, are common in the markets of Rosetta, at this season of the year.

To a traveller in Egypt there is nothing more remarkable than the scarcity of those antiquities which appear to be so common in all the Museums of Europe. From Rosetta, the French had removed almost every thing of this kind; but their acquisitions were by no means so remarkable as might have been expected. We found only a few granite pillars remaining: these might be seen in the streets, and they were

the only antiquities of the city. The famous Trilinguar Trilinguar Inscription, preserved upon a mass of Inscription. Syenite, perhaps improperly called the Rosetta

Stone, which afterwards became a subject of contention between General Menou and our Commander-in-chief, during the capitulation of Alexandria, was not found in Rosetta. Its discovery was first officially announced by an article in the "Courier d'Egypte," or Caïro Gazette: it is there described as the result of an excavation made in digging for the fortifications

(1) Musa Sapientum.

(2) Dated "Rosette, le 2 Fructidor, An 7.”