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crowding is allowed. There is ten times as much collision at Fulton street, New York, as at the East end of the Strand, or London Bridge. I have a passion for getting lost in odd streets, and have done it to my heart's content here, resorting to policemen for aid. It is believed any 'bus-man, or officer, would be dismissed instanter who should be uncivil to a stranger.

Our host came yesterday, 97 miles in two hours and a quarter. Yet it was smooth as a sleigh. They are adopting some bars of solid iron, with no sills or sleepers between them and the gravel. All along the sides of road [railway] it is at this season like a parterre.

A 'bus which I used was marked 6365. As many a-top as in. The 'bus coachmen are far above ours; being often coachmen driven from the roads by the railways. They never chew, talk low, or behave surly. The one who last drove me to the Bank is a genuine Mr. Weller, Senr.; was twenty-eight years coaching ; came out of Hessex—“ did ye never 'ear of Hessex ? Many convicts in America ? I has a nevoy in Adelaide." He helps me up, holds my umbrella, calls other 'buses, and covers my legs with a cloth when it rains. He knows me again and engages to take me up. This is true of all. Two can sit each side of coachman. He has nothing to do with the money, but drives from 7 A. M. to 12 night. Some days, the Paddington says, he takes in his ten pounds, often only two. Price is sixpence.

Having been at Greenwich Fair yesterday, and seen all Cockneydom in glorious delight, I went up stream to-day to see the other extreme, viz., Windsor Castle. The contrast is extraordinary between this dead-level garden (like a magic prairie) of matchless green, and the frowning fortress, which you see for miles, and which you almost skirt in arriving at it. Its towers are a hundred feet high. · All my ideas of castellated strength were quite feeble, compared with the reality. Outside it is a giant hold ; inside it is a scene of luxurious art. conception of Gothic churches being from drawings, I was struck dumb when I first entered St. George's Chapel. It is vain to enlarge on it. What I cannot get over is the glorious airy loftiness, lightness, and sweetness of this edifice, without one idea of gloom.

One of the very prettiest things I have seen was a string of Quaker girls at Windsor, no doubt wealthy, but uniting the innocency of the pale Philadelphians with the British roses. It requires some little historic knowledge to survey such galleries of art as these at the castle. One room is filled with the works of Van Dyck, and one with those of Sir Thomas Lawrence. The view from the top of the castle has often been described, (see Gray's Ode, but it seems endless, and may, for extent, be com

All my

pared with Monticello, [Virginia.] The number of pedestrians is astonishing. Every one drinks the light malt liquor of the hostelries, but none seem excited. Games of cricket on the greens are often in sight. The boats on the river seem wholly gala-boats, and chiefly rowed by boys. The number of the boys' boats at Eton is surprising.

June 11.-Before breakfast I surveyed Covent Garden Market near by, and saw the matchless flower and fruit emporium of London. Scores of large peaches, forced in hot-houses, and selling for 28. 6d. a-piece, [55 cents.] After breakfast across Waterloo Bridge to the South-Western Railway. It is Hampton Races. This caused a multitude to be going the same way. This also showed us every_variety of sporting character. The course is a mile from the Palace. (As a proof of English exactness, 1s. 7d. is this moment sent in from the Post Office, to be returned to an unknown person in this house, which has been over-paid.) The palace of Hampton Court is on the north of the Thames, ten miles up the river, near Richmond. Way very lovely; green lanes, winding pathways, cricket parties, green winding banks of the gentle Thames, pleasure-boating, (the only use of wherries now,) amazing swiftness of the four-oar boats, rowed by amateurs. At length get out at Hampton. Roads full, full; nobles, gentry, jockeys, pony-phætons, donkeys saddled for races, grooms, postilions, men in every livery, and colour of breeches. As they turn off to the left, we turn off to the right, to the palace. The elms were planted by Wolsey, who planned this immense structure. The glory of the building is its paintings. For the first time I beheld works of M. Angelo, Corregio, Murillo, Guido, Titian, and the original Cartoons of Rafaelle. We visited thirtytwo apartments and saw 1,026 pictures.

June 13.-I was much gratified with the law-courts. Lord Chancellor Truro was on the seat of equity, and Mr. Wood was speaking, in that hurried, clipping way common to all about St. Stephen's. Lord Campbell and Coleridge at Queen's Bench. Benches crammed with sergeants and barristers, in wigs, bands, and gowns. I also entered the court of the Vice Chancellor, Sir J. Knight Bruce. I hardly expected to see so many wigged ones on the benches; they filled them like pews. Then dash out, and lose myself in the city-in the London of C. Lamb. After all my study of the localities, I can hardly believe my eyes. Such dark, dim, tall, narrow, winding ways, such labyrinths, plainly just so for ages. People stare as I drive into the courts around St. Mary Aldermany church, Bow-lane, and peep into Friday street, Bread street, Old Change Alley; often have to get into a doorway to let a single cart pass. Come out suddenly

street.

on St. Paul's Church-yard; go round it, among the shops; survey the Religious Tract Society, their beautiful committee-room and library. Portraits of Burder and Bickersteth. Invited to meet their Committee. See Arnold's face (portrait] in a shop, and go in; it is Fellowes's, his publisher. Greatly struck with Newgate street and Old Bailey. Wonderful old courts opening into Farringdon St. Without. Down from High Holborn to Fleet

O the throng! Think of Johnson. Fleet street becomes the Strand, and in this I am now at home.

A wondrous eating and drinking folk are the Cockneys. Pastry-cooks and chop-houses seem to be a fourth of the shops in some parts, and you can hardly look up without seeing bright pots of ale carried about. Yet nobody seems to be drunk in the streets. I begin, however, to be aware of desperate lazars, and see pallid, begrimed children. I have no time for telling of the ancient churches, which are numberless. Their names carry me back to Foxe's Records. Bow church I pass daily. St. Mary le Strand is very near me, so is St. Dunstan's in the East, and St. Clement's. St. Sepulchre's (St. Pulchre's) is near Pie Corner, where the great fire stopped. In another direction I found myself at the Seven Dials. I owe much to the cuts in the “ Penny Magazine " for my familiarity with these spots.

June 14.-I went out before breakfast to revisit Covent Garden market, which I suppose is the greatest flower market in the world. I could smell the rich odours long before I got into the street. I bought a moss-rose, a damask rose, a bud, a geranium, and a bunch of pansies, all for sixpence. You must know that no rose will any longer grow in the close air of the " City.” After breakfast I went to the Horse Guards, traversed the St. James's Park, and enjoyed the green grass, the water,

the swans, the song of birds, and the play of a thousand children. These three great parks open into each other. Don't think of them as little patches like those in New York. In the middle of these parks you are out of sight of all the great city, but with gigantic trees, velvet turf, copses, thickets, artificial rivers, even with miniature ships on them; thousands of people gently sauntering or resting, and children without number playing, romping, rolling, flying kites, and fishing. I pursued my way to St. James's Palace, and found the Foot Guards just proceeding thither from Buckingham Palace with music. I followed them into the quadrangle of the ancient palace. There these noble red-coats formed a hollow square, and the band played for an hour the choicest operatic airs. I need not say a Queen's band is

1 He afterwards had to acknowledge the superiority of the Paris market,

page 144.

no mean affair. I then proceeded to another court, and approached one of the stiff sentinels. I showed him Mr. T.'s letter to his

He presented arms, and accompanied me to the right door. I rang and was admitted to the palace-to an antechamber. Four servants were in waiting. Mr. T. had not arrived. It was about eleven, and all the court-people had been up till four at a masquerade ball at the palace. I was ushered into his office, which was full of great ledgers about levées, drawing-rooms, presentations, &c. The servant brought me a fresh “ Morning Post,” which is the Court paper. Presently T. came in. I told him I had thus far failed to see the Queen. He directed me to go to Buckingham Palace, near Constitution Hill. Crossing Green Park I did so, and took a seat looking towards the Palace Garden. Presently there was a sensation. A coach, with four elegant outriders, approached with the Queen and Prince Albert. I saw both distinctly. They were coming home from the Crystal Palace. The people observed dead silence, and the general raising of hats was quiet and momentary.

In the afternoon I went into Hyde Park, to see what I consider the greatest display in England. Every day before dinner (5 to 63) all the aristocracy appear, either in carriages, or on horseback.. The drive is miles round. All the wealth and beauty of England is here represented. Coachmen, footmen, postilions, all in livery, all in white cravats, breeches and stockings, and many powdered. In Rotten Row the equestrians appear. Our Virginians stand aghast at the bold riding of the ladies. Such horses and horsemanship cannot be matched. Among this multitude I did not hear a loud word, or giggle, or see an arrogant or bold look. Very few of the women are beautiful in face, but the figure and port are incomparable. Nothing was apparent to distinguish noble persons, unless it were studied cleanliness and plainness. All the finery is on the horses and servants. The most graceful dressing was on the French ladies, of whom there are many.

June 16.—Clear again; but it will rain before night, as it has done every day. You don't see one in a hundred, even of women, with an umbrella. The water here is good, and so are the milk and butter. Such mutton and beef I never saw. Bacon (as they call it) differs from ours, and is very melting and delicious. Cherries have just come. No cheap strawberries yet. English eat cheese with salt. Their Cheshire is about like our Goshen. The Stilton is rich and altogether peculiar. The cream cheese and the sausage are better than we have at home. The bread is not always good. It is not dark all night now. I waked at two, and could have read large print.

To-day at Westminster Hall; saw the Vice Chancellor on the Bench. In the Common Pleas saw the Lord Chief Justice, Sir J. Jervis, and Sir T. N. Talfourd. In Exchequer, heard a funny case about tobacco samples. Lord Chief Baron, Sir J. Pollock, displayed much keenness in bridling Mr. Humphrey, Queen's Counsel. Sir James Park, of the same bench, spoke often. In Queen's Bench again saw Lord Campbell. The lawyers wear not only the wig, with two rows of curls and two queues, and the gown, and very long bands, but also the strait" coat of a century ago. I sat among them some time in the Exchequer

court.

The house next door to me, (No 141,) is that in which Jacob Tonson kept shop, and where were published Thomson's Seasons, Tom Jones, and the histories of Hume, Robertson, and Gibbon.

June 17.-I again visited Covent Garden market to see the matchless fruits, and flowers, and vegetables. Here are things which cannot be described. I passed by the old Hummums. Revisited the Temple; entered the house where Johnson lived and Lamb was born, and Johnson's house in Bolt court. Thence to the neighbourhood where the “ Boar's head in Little East

once was; now occupied by the statue of William IV. Then to the American Minister's, [Mr. Abbott Lawrence;] great style; he has an excellent manner, very English, and keeps up the American style. Then for the fourth time, to the Crystal Palace. This time I must say there was a crowd. There must have been hundreds of school boys and girls in uniforms. Whenever I see a well-dressed woman, I know she is French. The riding of the ladies in Hyde Park is a beautiful sight.

Mr. Lawrence had given to Major Preston and me an order to enter the House of Lords. Being a little too early I passed some time in Westminster Abbey, just opposite, among the tombs. Then I went out to see the Lords assembling. The day was fair, and it was a fine siglit. The common mode was on a noble horse, with a groom on another, who immediately rides off with both horses. Some came in coaches. Some walked, and I even observed some getting out of very ornary cabs and paying the fare. I had the uncommon pleasure of seeing the Duke of Wellington, for the second time. He was on horseback with a groom; white trowsers; much of Dr. Miller's look. He dismounted with much difficulty. I did not see him afterwards in the House. The Chancellor, Lord Truro, was on the woolsack. I saw Brougham, Grey, Sir J. Graham, (in the gallery,) Lord Lansdowne, Earl of Anglesea, (with one leg,) Archbishop of Canterbury, Bishops of London, Norwich, and Oxford. The

VOL. II.--14

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