WEARING APPAREL.

DIVISION II.

BODY COVERINGS.

A.D. 1671, November 7.-No 165.

BLOOD, EDMOND.-"A new manufacture, being a rich silk "shagg comodious for garments made of a silke wast, hetherto "of little or noe vse, and shagged by tezell or rowing cards, "like as English bayes, rowed fustians, or dimatyes."

[No Specification. Letters patent, printed, price 4d.]

A.D. 1737, December 15.-No 560.

VANEF, JANE. "New invented machine or joint hoops." A hoop petticoat consists of "four foldings in length or depth." In each folding are four divisions made with four pieces of whalebone. At the end of each piece are joints "which being

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severally jointed or properly fixed in an oval shape make "the compass or circumference of the petticoat.' The lowest folding, "containing four yards in compass or circumference, by having a string fixed at each end thereof draws the other 66 foldings up to the top bend of the hoop, which when drawn up by the turning of the joints on each hip contracts the "lowermost foldings so much that the compass or circum"ference exceeds not above two yards."

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'Any hooped petticoat either of a larger or lesser size may "be made in proportion to the dimensions above."

[Printed, 4d. No Drawings. See Rolls Chapel Reports, 6th Report, p. 120.]

A.D. 1758, December 22.-No 733.

BROWN, HENRY. "A new art and method of dying, staining, "and stamping of stockings and other apparel in all sorts of "colours." The directions given are

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Make prints of metal "cut or cast to the figure intended to "be dyed," hollow or with cavities to hold the colours, and "with or without one or more funnels." Place a print on each side of the stocking; lay them "first a print, then a stocking or stockings, and then a print " in a press "till "the frame be full," and screw down the press. Take such prepared colours "as fancy directs" and put them into the funnels. Wet the stockings in water; "take them to the blue "vats," and "let them be in the same to match the stocking "to the pattern and the figures. "Dye in the prints at the same time or at separate times.' Wash and trim, and they are both beautiful and fit for foreign or home con"sumption."

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[Printed, 4d. No Drawings. See Rolls Chapel Reports, 6th Report, p. 130.]

A.D. 1762, May 21.—N° 772.

GLASGOW, GEORGE. "A method of weaving cloth in "imitation of women's stiched stays, either of linnen, thread, "silk, or worsted, separately by themselves, or any of the same materials intermixed, and that in a much neater and more expeditious manner than are at present worked by a "needle." The Specification does not contain any information of the method adopted by the patentee, but the annexed sheet of drawings shews diagrams (with certain explanations) of “the different methods of stiching cloth in the loom in "imitation of women's stich'd stays," whether the stays are composed of two, three, or four pieces of cloth. These diagrams represent "different drafts and ties of sattines to be "used in the outside of common or turn'd stays."

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[Printed, 8d. Drawing.]

A.D. 1764, March 31.-N° 808.

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COBB, WILLIAM.-"A method of making an air jacket and proper shoes for swimming." The jacket is made of leather or anything pliable that will hold air; it is cut without sleeves, and pieces are sewed on the outsides and back bigger "than the insides or back, to hang loose and hollow, to "contain a sufficient quantity of air blowed through a bag or receptacle with a pipe fixed to it." The receptacle "is fastened on to one of the loose sides;" the jacket is

"buttoned before;" there are "button holes round the skirts "to be buttoned or fastened to the waistband of the breeches ;' the "upper strap" of the receptacle is buttoned "to the upper " button of the jacket," and the "lowest strap to the nearest "lower button it comes to." When the jacket is filled with air, the pipe is to be stopped with a cork.

The shoes are made “with pieces of wood cut in the form "of the sole of a shoe and hinges screwed on to the wood, " with joints covered with leather fastened on to common shoes, "to open and shut in swimming, like a swan's foot."

[Printed, 4d. No Drawings. See Repertory of Arts, vol. 13 (second series), p. 303.]

A.D. 1766, February 6.—No 839.

MARTIN, WILLIAM, and ROBINSON, ANN.-"Making and manufacturing of silk mitts and silk gloves.' The patentees

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do not furnish any information respecting their mode of manufacture. To the Specification is annexed a sheet of drawings exhibiting a pillow with a mitt thereon nearly finished and bobbins hanging therefrom, two patterns for a mitt, and two finished mitts.

Gloves are made in the same manner as mitts.

[Printed, 6d. Drawing. See Rolls Chapel Reports, 6th Report, p. 134.]

A.D. 1766, August 13.-N° 856.

MARCNARD, DANIEL AUGUSTIN.-"A machine for making "women's mitts and gloves." The annexed sheet of drawings exhibits two figures, one a front view, the other a side view of a frame carrying warp threads and three cross rods which pass between the threads and extend beyond the sides of the frame. No information respecting the machine is given in either the Specification or the sheet of drawings,

[Printed, 6d. Drawing.]

A.D. 1770, November 16.-No 971. VALLOTTON, PETER.-"New manufacture of stockings or hose, gloves, mittens, or mitts, night caps, sacks, coats, "waistcoats, and breeches pieces, or pieces of any length, or any other articles of goods of any kind, to be worked or wove upon a common stocking or other frame, or knit with "needles, peculiarly adapted for the wear of persons afflicted

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"with the gout, rheumatism, palsy, or other lameness, weakness, or infirmity." Waste silk, wool, fur, hair, down, tow, hemp, flax, or some of them, are "thrown or twisted together with a thread of wrought silk or other material "to strengthen "the same." The yarn thus made is woven upon a stocking or other frame, or is knit with needles, into the articles named in the title.

The articles are sometimes made "of common materials "and in the usual manner," with the addition of laying upon the needles, wool, hair, down, and unwrought silk, for the purpose of making a nap on one or both sides of the articles. [Printed, 4d. No Drawings.]

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A.D. 1783, February 27.-N° 1358.

LINGHAM, THOMAS.-"New invented method of cutting and making breeches in leather, velvet, silk, worsted, and other "materials." The breeches are cut "in one length" without waistband or stiffening and without seam "except in the sec"tion." They are fastened round the waist by buttons in front and a "band inclosed in the top part with a buckle behind." [Printed, 4d. No Drawings.]

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A.D. 1783, December 1.-N° 1404. VANBUTCHELL, MARTIN.-"New spring bands or fastenings for the apparel or furniture of man or beast, which "bands or fastenings by their certain reaction or small friction were more easy, safe, or lasting than other bands or fastenings." These bands are composed of springs made of silk, catgut, cotton, hair, worsted, thread, and such materials "twirled, twisted, or curled so tight as the materials will "bear" and laid in straight, cross, diagonal, or other lines; or of spiral springs made of any suitable metal or mixture of metals. The wire of which the springs are made may be covered with silk twist, thread, &c., and the springs may be covered with gold or silver lace, ribbon, &c. The bands are fixed to the parts to which they are applied by means of buckles, buttons, studs, clasps, hooks, rings, and other contrivances.

The patentee employs these bands for a great variety of purposes, amongst which he mentions glove bands, knee bands, neck bands, waist bands, bands for cravats, braces, stays, petti