138 MODE OF EXTIRPATION. If the Moors were less indolent, or less blinded by superstition, much might be done towards the total destruction of these voracious insects, when their eggs are first laid; but, in addition to their favourite doctrine of predestination, which accelerates many a serious calamity, the Arabs and negroes firmly believe in the existence of a bird called the samarmog, which destroys the locust, as storks do serpents and other reptiles with this fabulous notion, the boys who happen to take up one in their hand, cry out samarmog; and on its trembling, or making any effort to escape, they immediately fancy it must proceed from hearing the name of their implacable enemy pronounced. It is also related, that the Arabs go to Korazan, the country of the samarmog, and bringing a pitcher of water back to their own dwellings it attracts the bird, who is thus induced to come and make war on the locusts. Whenever any district is attacked, as already observed, the whole population unites in every possible effort to dislodge the enemy; but seeing the inutility of these efforts, they not only cease any longer to torment themselves at the disappointment, but very wisely endeavour to turn their misfortune into a source of some advantage: this is effected by beating the bushes and trees on which the locusts settle, and on their falling off, putting them into sacks prepared for the purpose: they are then boiled, and after being dried on the terrace, are con sidered as very good eating. I have tasted some that were fried in a pan, and broiled; they are by no means unpalatable, and something like sprats, though not very wholesome: the natives seem to swallow them with a particular zest. This insect is, I believe, the acrides of the ancients; and, according to some historians, ministered to the wants of the anchorites in the Thebaid. Desert of ANGAD.-Hardships in crossing the SAHARA or Great Desert.Caravans.-The Simoom.- Various Phenomena attending it.--Columns of Sand.-The Oasis.-Temple of Ammon.-Consolations in the Desert.MOUNT ATLAS.---Country South of it, &c. ALTHOUGH the Desert of Angad, which is principally situated on the Algerine territory, is not to be compared to that of Lybia or the Great Sahara; yet, possessing the same character, though on so small a scale, it serves to give some idea of the large ones, which impress such peculiar features on the whole face of this interesting country. These immense deserts, which are supposed to occupy nearly half the surface of this vast continent, have been justly called oceans of sand: they, too, have their gulphs, bays, and islands; and are sometimes agitated by an undulating motion so as nearly to approach the same effect on water. Here also, as at sea, are encountered the tornado and tempest, while the first appearance of caravans are like ships seen on the horizon. Hordes of predatory Arabs scour the interminable space, as pirates do the ocean: weeks and months are passed on them, during which stars are the traveller's guide; and, as on the still more unconfined element, the eyes are often anxiously directed towards the destined port, with longing expectation. The vehemence of a burning wind which prevails on these vast plains, raising volumes of sand, which leave frightful chasms and, vortexes below, has such a striking resemblance to the sea, that its common epithet among the Africans is, El bahar billa maa, the sea without water. 140 HORRORS OF THE DESERT. On these dreary wastes, no trace of vegetation or culture is to be seen here it is in vain for the traveller to expect shade from the vertical sun; no bird is there to cheer by its note the solemn stillness of the desert. The light, as observed by the great Buffon, is here more gloomy than the darkness of night; it only enables you to see the void that surrounds which separates and immensity of you, space you from a habitable country. If at night you wander from the caravan to breathe a little air, your own sighs are all that disturb the death-like silence of the desert: the traveller is obliged to lie down in the open air, and often without covering; uncertain whether the following day is not ushered in with an illness which may lead to his being abandoned by his companions. It is sometimes necessary to abstain from sleep for thirty hours together, to avoid the dangers which threaten you; and during all that time, pursue the harassing march. It is a luxury, when crossing the desert, to imbibe the dews of night; and when it rains, to spread your garments for the purpose of receiving the salutary drops. Arriving at a small reservoir, or a solitary well, the words "drink and depart!" salute the eye, as a warning that banditti may be lying in wait near the spot. Hillocks of sand are thrown up on one day to answer as a direction for the following, but a whirlwind has dispersed them, and the caravan is thus frequently turned out of its course: the stars, too, are often so obscured by clouds, that there is no possibility of seeing them. Another source of painful anxiety :-the disconsolate traveller arrives at a well, nearly suffocated with sand and thirst, but he finds it dry! He hears the famished beasts of prey, interrupt the horrid silence, while meditating on the frightful length of his remaining journey, and difficulty of reaching the end of it. His mind is terrified with the apprehension of dying by heat, hunger, thirst, and debility; or of being devoured by the monsters who prowl about these dreadful solitudes. Man is, as it were, lost in this empty and unlimited waste, in which he only beholds one vast sepulchre. The most dreadful stories are related of the innumerable perils HORRORS OF THE DESERT. 141 and disasters to which those who travel over the African deserts, are exposed. In the time of Leo Africanus, there was a public monument which commemorated the deplorable end of two people: one a conductor of camels, and the other a merchant; who paid the former ten thousand drachms of gold for his last cup of water, after which both perished! Notwithstanding the facility of joining a caravan, that has also its inconveniences: unable to make any delay, the slow and enfeebled are not considered: if taken ill, you are abandoned, and a strayed companion is never looked after. Let any one figure to himself, says M. Denon, in his Travels through Egypt, the fate of an unfortunate being, panting with fatigue and hunger, all his limbs swelled, the throat parched up, who respires with difficulty the burning atmosphere which consumes him; he hopes that a few moments of repose may revive his drooping frame; he stops, and sees the companions of his journey pass on, after having solicited their assistance in vain.-Personal calamity has shut every heart :--without once turning back, and with eyes fixed on the ground, each follows in silence the footsteps of him who goes before; all have passed, and are nearly out of sight; the exhausted traveller attempts to follow, but his limbs fail him; neither the perils nor terrors of his situation are sufficient to rouse him into activity. The caravan is gone: he now only sees it as a moving speck on the horizon; at length it vanishes! The unhappy man casts his eyes around; what do they encounter? A wild expanse of lifeless sand and sky! They are then turned upon himself: he closes them to shut out the dreary void which surrounds him; he only hears his own sighs; all that he has of existence belongs to death. Alone, isolated in the world, he is about to yield his last breath, without a single ray of hope to cheer the dying hour; and his corse, consumed by the ardent surface, will soon only leave the whitened bones to serve as a guide 142 DESCRIPTION OF THE SIMOOM. to the uncertain steps of future travellers, who tempt the melancholy and have dared to encounter the same perils! way, That which some people emphatically style the horrible wind of the desert, is another of those phenomena, peculiar to the climate of Africa, which is justly calculated to annoy and alarm the most resolute traveller. This wind, which is known as the scirocco in the Mediterranean, is called samiel, by the inhabitants of Syria, kasmin in Egypt, and simoom by the people of Africa. It generally continues three days; but has on some occasions been known to last from seven to twenty-one: commencing usually about one o'clock, it blows in sudden gusts, and moderates towards sun-set. 66 The burning vapour is mostly preceded by a red meteor, which extends a considerable way over the horizon. The natives are prepared for its coming by a strong smell of bitumen, which proceeds from the red cloud: this increases gradually in magnitude, until it bursts on the affrighted inhabitants, who on the first setting in of this dreadful wind, cry out, Lay down close to the ground, behold the simoom!" On those occasions it is necessary to keep the mouth closed for some minutes, and if possible apply a handkerchief steeped in vinegar to the nose; to avoid imbibing the first effects of the pestiferous blast, which often suffocates in the absence of those necessary precautions, or gives rise to a perpetual asthma, in those who indulge the fatal curiosity of contemplating that terrible phenomenon. Nature has taught animals to guard against it, by keeping their heads close to the ground, when it first comes on. Those who have suffered least from fatigue, are best able to meet the simoom: it frequently occurs that while this wind continues, several of a caravan lose all signs of animation, remaining in that state, until artificial means are employed for the purpose of bringing the sufferers back to life. When this wind begins, the upper part of the atmosphere assumes a bright yellow hue, while the lower is of a deep red. This effect is created by the rays of the sun penetrating an excessively fine sand, which soon insinuates itself into all the apertures of your clothes, finding its way into |